Cycling in the

Małopolska region

the best cycling routes

according to blogosphere

Table of contents

Welcome ............................................................................................................................................. 2

101countriesbefore50.com

Bike guide by Anita and Paweł Skowera from 101countriesbefore50.com ............................... 8

2 Cycling through the Tatra Mountains with Anita and Paweł Skowera from P O L S K A

101countriesbefore50.com ......................................................................................................... 14

About the blog/bloggers .............................................................................................................. 18

Ewcyna.com

3 Wiślana Trasa Rowerowa [Vistula Cycling Route] Cracow – Szczucin through the eyes of Ewa Świderska the author of MAŁOPOLSKA

www.ewcyna.com travel blog .................................................................................................... 20

4 Wiślana Trasa Rowerowa Brzeszcze – Cracow -

with Ewa Świderska the author of www.ewcyna.com travel blog ........................................ 28

About the blog/blogger ................................................................................................................ 34

Loswiaheros.pl

5 VeloDunajec: Wietrzychowice - Stary Sącz with Alicja Rapsiewicz and Andrzej Budnik ...................................................................................................................... 36

About the blog/blogger ................................................................................................................ 42

VeloMałopolska

14

6 In the Poprad Valley with Jarek Tarański ................................................................................... 44

About the blog/bloggers .............................................................................................................. 50

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Polskapogodzinach.pl

17

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7 Cracow by bicycle with Kasia Łaskawiec & Tomek Sawirski .................................................... 52

8 Cracow surroundings with Kasia Łaskawiec & Tomek Sawirski ............................................. 58

KRAKÓW

9 Cracow off-road with Kasia Łaskawiec and Tomek Sawirski ................................................... 64

About the blog/bloggers .............................................................................................................. 68

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9

Znajkraj.pl

10 VeloDunajec with Szymon Nitka ................................................................................................. 70

11 VeloCzorsztyn with Szymon Nitka .............................................................................................. 78

About the blog/blogger ................................................................................................................ 84

Szlakwokoltatr.eu

5

12 Something for the cycling gourmands - Wojtek Goj recommends ......................................... 86

About the blog/blogger ................................................................................................................ 90

Kasai.eu

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13 The Carp Valley - on two wheels with Kasia Pustelny-Szewczyk and Marek Szewczyk ....... 92

19

14 Wiślana Trasa Rowerowa for families

10

with Kasia Pustelny-Szewczyk and Marek Szewczyk ................................................................ 100

12 10 11 18

About the blog/bloggers ............................................................................................................... 102

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20

Rodzinniedookolaswiata.pl

15 VeloDunajec: Zabrzeż – Kadcza with the Mazuek family .......................................................... 104

16 Cycling through the Valley of the Alder Stream with the Mazurek family ............................ 110

17 From Rudno to the Chechło Reservoir with the Mazurek family............................................. 116

About the blog/bloggers ............................................................................................................... 120

BeskidTrail.pl

18 Beskid Sądecki extreme edition with Ola and Szymon Rochowiak ......................................... 122

About the blog/bloggers ............................................................................................................... 126

LuckyMTB.pl

19 Mini bikepacking with Kasia Lucky MTB Part 1: Nowy Sącz – Szczawnica ............................................................................................................... 128

20 Mini bikepacking with Kasia Lucky MTB Part 2: On the route from Szczawnica to Rabka-Zdrój ............................................................................... 136

About the blog/blogger ................................................................................................................. 142

Dear Reader,

What you are holding in your hands right now is a unique guide presenting WELCOME

twenty remarkable bike tours around the Małopolska region. All of the routes are recommended by widely known and appreciated authors of popular travel blogs. Many of them have visited remote and exotic corners of the world, others know Małopolska down to the slightest detail. Among them, there are seasoned long-distance runners, globetrotters, or parents sharing their passion for traveling with their children. It is through the prism of their ideas, experiences, and interests, how we want to reveal the cycling face of the Małopolska region: routes that need to be travelled, places that need to be visited, traditions that need to be discovered, or delicacies that need to be savoured. By following in their footsteps, recognizing their recommendations and tips, we will experience the exceptionality and taste the uniqueness of the region. The descriptions of the trails are often intertwined with digressions, practical advice, fleeting impressions, or photos with a hint of sentiment. Everyone will surely find an idea for a bike trip for themselves in these personal stories.

We invite you to a journey that will be remembered for a long time and will not let you forget us.

We invite you to Małopolska

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YOU SAY: BIKE, YOU THINK: MAŁOPOLSKA!

GOOD TO KNOW:

For families - take it easy. For athletes - boldly. For visualizers - scenic! The region of Małopolska has a well-developed network of trails and modern cycle routes VELOMAŁOPOLSKA

dedicated to all lovers of riding on two wheels.

The VeloMałopolska bicycle route network is an absolutely pioneering and unique project in the scale of Poland. Eight routes of the European standard The natural diversity, unique landscapes, combined with the centuries-old are designed in such way to enable reaching the most valuable natural and to-culture, priceless monuments and an exquisite regional cuisine give a trigger to urist areas of the region of Małopolska. the Tatra Mountains, Pieniny, Spis, Po-take up new cycling challenges, the peaceful and bold ones, and the bold ones, górze, Jura Krakowsko-Częstochowska, Puszcza Niepołomicka [the Niepołomice both fitted for the inhabitants of the Małopolska region and for the lovers of two Forest], as well as, e.g. Cracow, Oświęcim, Tarnów, Sącz, or Zakopane - all these wheels from other Polish regions and from abroad. However, the touristic nature sites cross the routes sites cross the routes of VeloMałopolska. The goal is to of the region is not the only advantage of Małopolska, although undoubtedly develop 1,000 km of routes (over 600 km have already been built by 2020). The extremely important. The high standard cycling infrastructure is just as essential.

Wiślana Trasa Rowerowa (the Vistula Cycling Route) is almost ready to use, and Only now, the region offers more than 800 kilometers of bike routes suitable for the following routes are mostly passable: VeloDunajec, VeloMetropolis (Mało-every cyclist, regardless of one’s physical capabilities, including more than 600

polska section of EV4) and VeloNatura (Małopolska section of EV11).

km of the routes that were developed in the recent years. 60% of them are routes are separated from the car traffic, the remaining 40% are those with a low traffic EuroVelo

volume or comfortable „gravel trails”. In addition, there are approx. 3 000 km of The European network of cycle routes meeting certain standards (suitable surfa-bicycle trails of varying difficulty level and dynamically developing infrastructure ce, road marking and signs, slope). Two international routes routes run through surrounding ski resorts dedicated to Enduro and Downhill enthusiasts.

the region of Małopolska: EuroVelo11 (EV11) and EuroVelo4 (EV4).

The unique cycling atmosphere of the Małopolska region is composed of various events for both professionals and the amateurs of riding on two wheels CYCLIST-FRIENDLY SPOTS [MIEJSCA PRZYJAZNE ROWERZYSTOM

- starting from the Małopolska Tour mainly dedicated to families, the iconic Joy

- MPR]

Ride festival in Kluszkowce, the Stars of the South in Maków Podhalański and Spots adapted to the needs of a cyclist, such as accommodation and catering faci-Stryszawa, Tour of Małopolska, a rally through the Dunajec Valley, or the Race lities, or tourist attractions. They have, among others, the basic equipment for bi-by Tomasz Marczyński.

cycle repairs, bicycle racks, they offer the possibility of safe bicycle storage for the duration of an overnight stay or sightseeing.

See the cycling routes in the Małopolska Region

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CYCLIST SERVICE POINTS [MIEJSCA OBSŁUGI ROWERZYSTÓW

cycling road signs

- MOR]

Cycling trails are marked with a white square plate (sign R-1) with a black picto-Roofed and wind-protected resting shelters located along the Velo-gram of a bicycle on it. The colours of the cycling trails are the same as hiking tra-Małopolska routes, where you will find the maps of the area, bicycle stands, ils. Regional and national cycling routes that comply with high technical parame-thrash bins, grills, or portable toilets (the so-called „toi-toi”).

ters are marked with the R-4 sign: an orange square with the bicycle pictogram Mobile applications for cyclists

and the route number or name. EuroVelo’s international routes are marked with Smartphone applications with the maps of bicycle routes and trails will facilitate a blue square with inscribed yellow stars and the route number.

traveling by bike in the field. Free maps of Małopolska’s routes are available, e.g.

by downloading the following apps: Rowerowa Małopolska (English: Małopolska by bike - bicycle navigation), Szlaki Turystyczne Małopolski (English: Tourist trails of Małopolska).

R-1

R-4

Maps of the Małopolska region cycling routes and trails The maps of the Małopolska region cycling routes and trails can be downloaded from the following website: narowery.visitmalopolska.pl/mapy.

The maps are available in an electronic form and intended for self-printing. Free paper maps and bicycle guides can be obtained at tourist information centres of Małopolska Sieć Informacji Turystycznej [MSiT] (English: Tourist Information Network of Małopolska).

narowery.visitmalopolska.pl

A regional website dedicated to cycling tourism in Małopolska.

It contains a complete set of information on cycling trails and routes, as well as trip ideas, and the calendar of cycling events.

Views from selected Cyclist Service Points

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GET YOURSELF A PROPER BICYCLE AND BICYCLE EQUIPMENT

BIKE GUIDE BY ANITA AND

The best choice would be a gravel bike that can handle both the asphalt surface and PAWEŁ SKOWERA FROM

the gravel road. Cycling enthusiasts with less physical fitness may consider choosing 101COUNTRIESBEFORE50.COM

an electric bicycle (the so-called „e-bike”), which is an electrically assisted bicycle. We do not recommend mountain bicycles, as the route of the trail runs mostly on the asphalt surface and you will only get more tired riding it.

Pursuant to the Polish and Slovak regulations in force, you must have an appropriate bicycle equipment:

• Front lighting - white or yellow light, permanent or flashing.

• White retro-reflector is obligatory in Slovakia!

• Rear lighting - red retro-reflector (a shape other than a triangle) and red position lamp (may be flashing). The height of the bicycle lamps above the road surface must be not more than 150 cm and not less than 25 cm;

• Brakes - the bike must have at least one working brake (Poland) and two independent brakes (Slovakia);

HOW TO PREPARE YOURSELF FOR A BIKE TRIP

• Bell;

• Helmet - recommended in Poland, compulsory in Slovakia!

Make sure you are prepared physically. Begin your preparation for a bike trip with

• Fluorescent high-vis sleeveless jacket (vest) or reflective elements on clothing Szlak wokół Tatr (English: the Trail around the Tatra Mountains) by taking extra care

- mandatory in Slovakia;

of your shape. Go to work by bike, get off the bus two stops earlier, or go jogging.

• In addition to the mandatory equipment, also pay attention also to the Regular cycling or jogging 3 times a week will increase your endurance and improve accessory equipment that will improve the comfort of your trip.

the overall efficiency of your body. Physical fitness will minimize the risk of injury, and muscles will not refuse to obey after 10 covered kilometers.

PLAN YOUR ROUTE

The historical, cultural and natural cycling route around the Tatra Mountains encompasses well-prepared bicycle paths leading through the mountainous regions of Podhale, Orawa, Liptov, and Spis located both in Poland and Slovakia. Currently, it is over 150 km of paths out of 250 km planned. While preparing for a bike trip, remember to check the difficulty level of a chosen route section, its distance, and estimated travel time. Always have plan B in case of bad weather or injuries! When planning your route, you can use the following mobile applications: Komoot or Google maps.

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MAKE UP YOUR EQUIPMENT

CHECK THE WEATHER AND CYCLE AT THE RIGHT TIME OF THE

DAY

For a short one-day trip, a small backpack of approx. 10-20 liters should be sufficient.

For a several-day trip, in place of a backpack, you will need waterproof panniers.

Check the current weather forecast, when planning your bike trip. If the current I. Equipment of the backpack/handlebar bag:

weather forecasts anticipate thunderstorms or temporary rainfall, you need to pack

• ID card/passport;

waterproof clothes that will prevent you from body chills (hypothermia). Contrary

• Money (PLN and EUR);

to appearances, beautiful sunny weather and the searing heat can also turn the trip

• Sheet of paper with the bicycle rental/service number written down; unbearable. The temperature of our body rises as a result of physical effort, which in

• Charged phone and an additional energy source - power bank with a cable; the heat may end up in weakness, or even fainting. Remember to always drink plenty

• Paper map - an alternative to mobile navigation;

of water and rest often!

• Water;

• Snacks that will give you energy;

READ THE BICYCLE REGULATIONS

• Headlamp;

• Mini first aid kit;

In accordance with applicable regulations, the cyclist is a full traffic participant.

• SPF sun cream;

The cyclist is obliged to:

• Sunglasses;

• comply with right-hand traffic;

• Photographic equipment;

• use the bicycle path, if designated;

• Disposable mask.

• signal a change of direction by holding out your hand;

• keep at least one hand on the handlebar and both feet on the pedals; II. Pannier accessories:

• keep a safe distance from the cyclist riding in front;

• Rain jacket and trousers;

• getting off the bike at a pedestrian crossing and walking the bike through the

• Thermoactive clothing and underwear;

crosswalks. The exception is when a bicycle lane is painted along a pedestrian

• Sleeping clothes;

crossing.

• Shoes for a change;

• Quick-drying towel;

• Cosmetics;

• Cycling gloves;

• Cycling shorts;

• Softshell or fleece jacket;

• Phone/camera charger;

• Tent, sleeping bag, self-inflating mat, gas cooker, cutlery, mug, mess-tin - if you plan to stay at campsites..

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In Poland, two cyclists may ride side by side only on roads with little traffic. In case of Slovakia, riding side by side is allowed only on, when it does not pose risk to other cyclists. You must not lead the dog or a second bicycle, while riding a bike yourself.

In Slovakia, you must yield the way to pedestrians, when using the zones marked as

„Pešia zóna”.

A child up to 7 years old can be transported in the child seat. If the child weighs less than 15 kg, the child seat can be attached to the bike frame, if it weighs no more than 22 kg, a seat must be attached behind the saddle. Children under 10 participating in a bicycle trip must be under the care of adults. The exceptions are bicycle paths, field and forest trails, designated housing areas and pavements for pedestrians. A bike rider aged 10-18 should have a bicycle license.

LEARN MORE ABOUT THE MARKINGS OF THE TRAILS

Rowerowy szlak wokół Tatr is marked with orange, metal plates with the trail logo.

The main route has a colour logo, whereas the side routes, trail connectors, and loops are marked with a black and white logo.

On the Slovak side, the marking of the bicycle route, apart for metal plates, often takes the form of letter C drawn on trees, road poles, or asphalt surfaces and comes in 5 colours (black, yellow, green, blue, and red)

depending on the level of difficulty, nature, and the length of routes.

FOLLOW THE CYCLING SAVOIR VIVRE

Here are a few rules that everyone who gets on the bike should follow:

• Familiarize yourself with the basic signs and road traffic rules;

• Always signal road traffic maneuvers;

• Do not overtake at intersections;

• Don’t cut anyone off while driving;

• Overtake other road traffic participants cautiously and only if you have enough space;

• Remember what the contraflow is for and do not use it for driving against the flow!

• Be understanding - you are not alone on the track;

• Cooperate with drivers and other road traffic participants;

• Do not rest in the middle of the bike path, step aside!

• Do not block the entire width of the track;

• Remember that you are a visitor on the sidewalk;

• Wear a cycle helmet;

• Use reflectors and lights after dark;

• Be nice, smile, apologize and say thank you

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D posted 18.08.2020

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ROWEROWY SZLAK WOKÓŁ TATR IN 4 OR 2 DAYS

CYCLING THROUGH THE

TATRA MOUNTAINS

With a slight modification, we covered the Rowerowy szlak wokół Tatr (English: the WITH ANITA AND

Bike trail around the Tatra Mountains) in 4 days. We crossed 316 fantastic kilometres using both asphalt bicycle paths, gravel road separated from car traffic, and ordinary PAWEŁ SKOWERA FROM

roads. The full text is available on the blog, and here we present 2 trip recommenda-101COUNTRIESBEFORE50.COM

tions only on the Polish side.

N O W Y T A R G – C H O C H O Ł Ó W

The historical, cultural and natural Rowerowy szlak wokół Tatr (English: the Bike trail around the Tatra Mountains) takes its beginning in Nowy Targ, approx. 1 km from the beautifully renovated railway station. From the very start, for the next 35 km to the Slovak Trzciana, it leads along an asphalt bicycle path separated from car traffic and is a perfectly prepared part of a fatigue-free recreational bicycle route. Driving along the main asphalt bike trail, you will be passing by blooming meadows, grazing herds ROWEROWY SZLAK WOKÓŁ TATR

of the original sheep and cows, as well as amazing landscapes of the Tatra Mounta-NOT ONLY FOR SEASONED CYCLISTS

ins, Babia Góra and Gorce.

The village of Chochołów is an absolute „must see” stop on this part of the trail. In When you hear about the Rowerowy szlak wokół Tatr (English: order to reach it just before the Polish-Slovak border, you have to leave the main Bike trail around the Tatra Mountains), you probably imagine the trail for a while. Chochołów consists almost entirely of original wooden highlander streams of sweat flowing down your back, the shortness of breath, cottages.

and pulsating veins swollen from effort. Through the eyes of your Leaving Chochołów, take the same route leading near the bank of Czarny Dunajec imagination, you probably see killer cycling hill climbs and rocky pa-and return to the main trail. From this point, the proverbial „stone’s throw” will sepa-ths meandering between rocks or limbs of mountain trees. Nothing rate you from the Polish-Slovak border. You can now either follow the main trail back could be more wrong! You will not expe-to Nowy Targ or cross the border and keep cycling following our lead.

rience such extreme attractions on this

trail. Rowerowy szlak wokół Tatr is a place

friendly for all cycling enthusiasts. The trail

was designed in such a way that everyone

who knows how to ride a bike, rollerblades,

or cross-country skis will be able to choose

something suitable for themselves.

ON THE ROUTE

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KACWIN – NOWY TARG (SPISZ, PODHALE)

about 2 km. It is probable that you will need to get off your bike and carry it to the top. However, the extraordinary panoramas of the Niedzica Castle with the Pieniny We start our journey on the Slovak-Polish border in Kacwin. The route can also in the background will surely compensate you for your entire effort.

be travelled in the opposite direction, starting from Nowy Targ. Park your bike at In Falsztyn, turn right onto VeloDunajec/VeloCzorsztyn routes and follow the path the parking shelter and go down until you see an astonishing waterfall called „pod along the lake to Frydman. This small village located in Nowy Targ Basin, where the Upłazem”.

Białka river flows into Czorsztyn Lake. The place is characterized by a typical Spiš The second waterfall can be found near the church in the centre of the village. The urban layout, which is worth seeing. Here we took a shortcut and turned to Krempa-initial section of the trail just outside the village is quite tiring and leads sharply chy, where the main route runs. From Krempachy, we headed towards Nowa Biała.

uphill. After you reach it, all your efforts will be compensated for by the amazing We suggest that you should do the same. Crossing over Białka, you will leave the views.

picturesque Spisz behind, Zamagur Spiš to be specific, which is a part of the Once you cross Kacwin, you can follow the trail around the Tatra Mountains which historic region of Spisz located on the Polish-Slovak border, and enter Podhale.

runs through Łapsze Niżne, Dursztyn, Krempachy and Nowa Biała towards Nowy A cycle-friendly paved road will lead you to Gronków. Cycling this route, right after Targ, or - just like us - take its part heading to Niedzica in order to go through the passing the village of Nowa Biała, you will go by the charming, white church of St.

southern part of the route around Czorsztyn Lake.

Magdalene and beautiful panoramas of Podhale. Once you leave Gronków behind, Choosing this brilliantly situated, convenient cycle path, you will experience a great deal the path turns into gravel, and just before reaching Nowy Targ, in its final section, the of breathtaking views of the Pieniny and Tatra Mountains, Gorce and Babia Góra.

path will lead you through the magical place called „Bór na Czerwonem” . It is one As if that was not enough, on the way you will pass the Niedzica Castle with the Inca of the oldest nature reserves in Poland, and at the same time the largest and most gold allegedly hidden in its walls. From under the castle, the route leads through valuable natural area of raised bogs not only in Central Europe. Now you have to go several demanding cycling hill climbs. The toughest one is located in the Kosa-back to Kacwin or finish the trip in Nowy Targ.

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Anita and Paweł Skowera – the authors of travel blog 101countriesbefo-w

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On a beautiful sunny Saturday, the path was super busy - there were a lot of cyclists, those riding road bikes and families with children. The sun was shining brightly, the 3

stomach started to rumble, and you should definitely get some decent provisions, as it can be hard to stock up later. Next stop is Niepołomice with the royal castle and the WIŚLANA TRASA ROWEROWA [THE

Puszcza Niepołomicka [the Niepołomice Forest]. Although the fun of riding this route VISTULA CYCLING ROUTE] CRACOW-has just begun, I decided to leave the embankment.

SZCZUCIN – THROUGH THE EYES OF

EWA ŚWIDERSKA THE AUTHOR OF

NIEPOŁOMICE AND THE NIEPOŁOMICE FOREST

WWW.EWCYNA.COM TRAVEL BLOG

It’s not far to the downtown area from here. Nowadays, Niepołomice is a small town, but it has a great importance from the historical point of view. In the centre of the town, there is a Renaissance shape laid out in the form of a tetragon - this is the royal castle in Niepolomice, the arcaded courtyard of which resembles the Wawel castle. In fact, the castle of Niepołomice was the second most important royal residence to the Wawel castle. It was built on the site of a royal hunting residence - the Niepołomice Forest - located nearby, it was a favourite hunting destination of the Polish kings and their court already in the 14th century. It was once called ‚niepolomna’, which means „inaccessible”, „ impassable”... However, nowadays, the accessibility is pretty THE VISULA CYCLING ROUTE FROM CRACOW TO SZCZUCIN

much convenient - you can go there by car or by train with a bike, reaching one of the nearby suburban stations and make a nice trip taking the Wiślana Trasa Rowerowa, and partially the bicycle routes running through the forest. On the so-called ‚Royal There is always something to do in Cracow at any any time of the Route’, which crosses this area latitudinally, you will find several bicycle routes -

year and that’s one of the few places in Poland that never sleeps.

there are sections of EuroVelo routes - VeloMetropolis (EuroVelo 4) - Amber Trail It would seem that leaving Cracow is a piece of cake thanks to the Greenways, VeloNatura - which is a fairly wide, paved street with car traffic allowed.

main bicycle artery - including the Wiślana Trasa Rowerowa - which runs along the boulevards just above the Vistula River. The ride is fine,  BOCHNIA

smooth, but after a few kilometres, due to the renovation works of the Vistula embankments, things get a bit more complicated.

… Where can you get some sound sleep and dream colorful dreams?

Well, you have to be vigilant, as at some point, the route „jumps” on The answer is simple ... - 250 meters underground in the Bochnia Salt Mine!

the Vistula embankments in Podgrabie and

I was already so close to Bochnia. Yet - it is worth visiting the salt mine in Bochnia, leads almost continuously for over 100

when you already have visited the one in Wieliczka? Well, the mine in Bochnia kilometres to Szczucin.

is actually quite different. Its approach to sightseeing is rather unconventional -

- Lady, so many cyclists are riding here now!

the guide tells the history of the place and various interesting facts, but the main They thought it up and did nicely, this

attraction is (is supposed to be) multimedia inserts and animations (e.g. the light cycling path was created maybe a year ago

goes out and we can see a visualization of historical characters - a king, a monk,

- a passing resident of the Niepołomice area

merchants, etc., who narrate some, or simply talk to each). An interesting idea, I approached me, when after a somewhat

have never seen anything like this before. To some extent, it can be really amusing, complicated ride from Cracow, I welcomed

although, as for me, it is rather a message addressed to younger audience - older a brand new section of the Vistula route

children and teenagers would probably be delighted. The salt mine is the main marked with orange plates just across the

attraction in Bochnia. However, I wanted to dedicate a few more hours to visit the bridge over the Podłężanka river, when I was

city centre - especially the Arthropod butterfly museum that I was recommended taking some photos. From that point

to see (the largest collection of butterflies in Poland), and generally experience and the signing is great, every turn, no need to

feel the atmosphere of the place. Unfortunately, shortly after leaving the mine, it reach for a map or GPS.

got quite late and I had to push the pedals really hard to reach a spontaneously

- and are you using it?

organized overnight stay in an agritourism farm in Drwinia by nightfall, whose

- Sure!

owner - Jadwiga - is a walking encyclopaedia about the area.

20

ON THE ROUTE

21

UŚCIE SOLNE - SZCZUCIN (AND MANY, MANY MEADOWS IN BETWEEN) The most convenient way to get back on the Wiślana Trasa Rowerowa is to choose the connecting route called „Sal de Bochegna” (green trail) - that heads to the historic salt warehouse located in Uście Solne - the route leads along the local roads by the Raba river, or cross the river by the footbridge in Mikluszowice, and then follow the western side of the river along the embankments, where you will find a VeloRaba route section. The Wiślana Trasa Rowerowa and VeloRaba route cross in Uście Solne.

POWIŚLE DĄBROWSKIE

Since I left Niepołomice and Bochnia, between the Wiślana Trasa Rowerowa and Tarnów, in Powiśle Dąbrowskie located to the south of the Vistula river, I travelled through places I had never heard of before: Szczurowa, Żabno, Uście Solne and Ujście Jezuickie. I wandered around the world so much and I still discover blank spots on the map of my country. Riding this route section, I’m not getting back on the Wiślana Trasa Rowerowa, something lost, something gained. I know that almost all the time it leads along the embankment up to Demblin. Certainly, being there, I would reach the headland formed in the place where the Dunajec river flows into the Vistula - the colour of the water flowing from both rivers differs, although it is probably best seen from above. Following the advice of the local residents, I decided to see this place from the river’s perspective, specifically from the ferry in Opatowiec.

In Opatowiec, I found an ATM, which made me super happy, in a local bakery I bought an exquisite fresh bread and headed again to Ujście Jezuickie to continue my trip, taking the longest, 30 km section of the Wiślana Trasa Rowerowa leading through the Vistulan boulevards.

ZALIPIE

Zalipie is unique because it is not an open-air museum, but an ordinary village.

Ordinary, but unique at the same time, as it is flowers painted. Painted floral patterns can be seen not only on the facades of dwelling houses, but also inside, on farmyards, doors, different objects. Painting flowers is still a living and cultivated tradition. I have never met a similar place anywhere in the world.

This tradition is said to have originated from the practice of painting dirty spots on fireplaces - it was propagated by Felicja Curyłowa, a resident of the village, at the beginning of the 20th century. The former farm of Felicja Curyłowa is now a branch of the regional museum in Tarnów. It is also worth taking a look at the the House of Painters - it is a local community center, the combination of tourist information, a souvenir shop and a workshop, where you can admire the art of painting flowers, or even try it yourself.

SZCZUCIN

From Zalipie I return to the Wiślana Trasa Rowerowa and without any further deviations from the main route, I reach Szczucin. The beautiful cycling path along the embankment 22

23

ends quite brutally at the bridge, where a super busy provincial road runs. The road is the disadvantage - those more than 200 kilometers of

border with Świętokrzyskie Voivodeship, which - I hope - will also take care of its part of the the Wiślana Trasa Rowerowa is still not enough!

Wiślana Trasa Rowerowa. In Szczucin, one quick glance - unfortunately, only through the Tourist facilities - especially to the east of Cracow fence - at the Road Construction Museum, which houses all souvenirs related to road

- are poor. There are not too many places to construction, and although I am not particularly interested in this subject, the place looks stay, pubs, shops. Again - it doesn’t bother me interesting - especially children and teenagers would find many attractions there. Again, I that much, I have a tent and enough space in didn’t manage to fit into the opening hours (only until 3pm!).

my panniers for supplies, but there are probably

people who want to have everything planned and

SUMMARY

travel light. Some will also find it boring in the long run, nothing really happens, there are no descents

Is it worth going along the Wiślana Trasa Rowerowa in Małopolska? Sure it is. So or climbs. Nothing stands in the way of adapting

far, this has been the longest section of the bicycle route in Poland that I know, the the route as a frame of smaller trips, making loops, or zigzagging like me. Admire landscapes and monuments of little-known - especially from

the eastern - part of the Małopolska region. I also

know many flat riding fans.

FOR EVERYONE, MULTI-DAY TRIPS

JEWISH CEMETERY

ZALIPIE

route for everyone, also for families with children

easy route

time required to travel the route: 2 days

the length of the route: more than 100 km without

„deviations”

recommended type of the bicycle: any type will do infrastructure of which is dedicated exclusively to cyclists. The route sections that lead along the Vistula river embankments present the CRACOW

European standard. The route is perfect for cyclists on road bikes as

• Niepołomice

well as families and bicycle enthusiasts. However, the best option is to adjust particular route sections to shorter trips. Of course, the route along the Vistula embankments has its pros and cons.

• Bochnia

Separation from car traffic and safety is a huge advantage. The route is easy, undemanding - it is flat. And disadvantages? You have to pay attention to the weather - the direction of the wind (Poland

• Uście Solne

is dominated by western winds, sometimes northern or southern, rarely from the east), the sun in the afternoon hours can also be

• Ujście Jezuickie

harmful, there may be no shelter from the rain. Detours. Renovation works are still underway on the river embankments, and in the area around Cracow the signposting is sometimes poor. Some sections

• Opatowiec

of the route follow local roads. Honestly, it’s not a huge problem for me, even a kind of variety, the roads are usually really quiet, but for families with children it can be an important feedback. And the main

• Zalipie

SZCZUCIN

SZCZUCIN

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The Małopolska section of the Wiślana Trasa Rowerowa is almost ready and it counts more than 230 km of cycling route, mainly along the Vistulan embankments.

WIŚLANA TRASA ROWEROWA

The Vistula River, its central part in Małopolska, is more or less marked by Cracow.

BRZESZCZE - CRACOW – WITH

Visiting the official website of the Wiślana Trasa Rowerowa, you will find plenty EWA ŚWIDERSKA THE AUTHOR

of information and useful tips, you can download current gps track, gpx file and download pdf maps in A4 format for printing. I am starting my journey in Silesia, OF WWW. EWCYNA.COM

in Czechowice-Dziedzice. Then I’m passing Brzeszcze, where the Wiślana Trasa TRAVEL BLOG

Rowerowa leads through a little pothole, but picturesque gravel road through the pond and forest complex in Brzeszcze and the backwaters of the Vistula and Soła rivers.

DIRECTION: KRAKÓW - FROM ŚLĄSK TO THE HEART OF MAŁOPOLSKA BY THE WIŚLANA TRASA ROWEROWA

Bicycle vagabonds don’t need much. They prefer local roads to highways, asphalt, gravel, rocky, they will also handle. Even though they are a road battle-hardened warriors, they wiill appreciate every cycling friendly route and will gladly ride it. I think it was only a few years ago in South Korea that I found out for the first time what a real bicycle route means. The network of bicycle routes embracing this country delighted me to

such extent that I was cruising around the

country for more than two months. It looks

like Małopolska is finally following South

Korea’s footsteps.

HARMĘŻE

If I had to choose one place that moved me the most, or even made me feel emotionally exhausted considering the entire route I travelled, it was the exhibition

„Labyrinths - Clichés of Memory” in the monastery - the Centre of St. Maksymilian Kolbe and the Franciscan monastery in Harmęże, a few kilometers from Oświęcim.

The exhibition consists of over 200 drawings by Marian Kołodziej, who arrived from Tarnów with the first transport to Concentration Camp in Auschwitz in June 1940.

ON THE ROUTE

28

29

OŚWIĘCIM

OŚWIĘCIM – MĘTKÓW

In Oświęcim, I decided to take the first break. At the entrance to the city there is the Once you leave Oświęcim behind, the best of the Wiślana Trasa Rowerowa begins.

so-called Miejsca Obsługi Rowerzystów (MOR) - (English: Cycylist Service Points).

Perfectly smooth asphalt trail reaching all the way to the horizon. Riding on a river MORs can be operated in many ways - you can sit back, shelter from the sun or rain, embankment is completely separated from car traffic. Marked with plates bearing rest, eat something (and even make a barbecue!), use the toilet (although being the Wiślana Trasa Rowerowa and VeloMetropolis logo. Relief for the ears - it is quiet, a portable toilet, it is not that scary), repair your bike (hopefully there is no need), relief for the eyes - it is green and, above all, safe. This is how bicycle routes should check the route and nearby attractions thanks to the map which is placed there.

be designed nowadays. Driving a river embankment, despite all its advantages, can One MOR even served me for many hours because it was raining heavily. This get a little bit monotonous, but it will do you no harm if the trail is adapted to type of multifunctional place is an absolute novelty in our Polish bicycle backyard.

shorter trips, when you find something interesting in the neighbourhood.

There are a dozen or so MORs along the entire Wiślana Trasa Rowerowa, there are available every 15-20 km. When it is the least expected, among the green fields  WYGIEŁZÓW, DOLINA KARPIA, WADOWICE, KALWARIA ZEBRZYDOWSKA on the horizon appear barracks fenced with barbed wire - the buildings of the AND LANCKORONA

camp in Brzezinka, Auschwitz-Birkenau II. This is the place, where the mass extermination was done and the horrifying idea of the „Final Solution of the Jewish As I intended, I left the route in Mętków - a few kilometers to the north, in Wygiełzów, Question” came to life. But know that the Wiślana Trasa Rowerowa does not run in where the Nadwiślański Park Etnograficzny (Nadwiślański Ethnographic Park) and its direct neighbourhood, but about a few hundred meters away. A bit of shame -

the ruins of the castle in Lipowiec are located. The embankment is a place, where it I highly recommend turning and riding along the fence of the Birkenau camp - the may be hard to find some shade on a sunny day. However, the open-air museum, where view is impressive. Immediately afterwards, the Wiślana Trasa Rowerowa leads to more than 20 objects of wooden architecture are placed: cottages, barns, granaries, the city of Oświęcim, it runs near the main Memorial and Museum - the former pigsty, forge and oil mill, as well as a historical church from Ryczów originating from Auschwitz-Birkenau Concentration Camp. A symbol of terror and genocide, a place the beginning of the 17th century, offers some pleasant shade among the trees, where almost everyone has heard of. Auschwitz surprised me. No, not the camp, but you can take a deep breath and feel the atmosphere of a local village from years ago.

the city of Oświęcim. In the place, where the Oświęcim stronghold was founded From the Wiślana Trasa Rowerowa, only one spin of the wheels to the south separates in the 12th century, the repeatedly rebuilt Piast Castle overlooks the city - now you from the Carp Valley. I decided to spin the wheel. Most of the town of Zator is the seat of the municipal museum. Apart from the exhibition dedicated to the associated with the Energylandia entertainment complex, but the Carp Valley bicycle history of the city, the „Game for Independence” Historical Route has recently trail also runs through this town - these are long kilometers of cycling paths leading been opened in the tunnels under the castle hill. Catholic and Jewish communities mainly along fish ponds and charming backwaters. It belongs to the Greenways route coexisted in the city, whose history can be learned by visiting the Synagogue and network and forms a loop of almost 90 km - I covered a short part of it. Peace, quiet and the Jewish Center. What I could see and what everyone can see are Oświęcim birds singing is all you can hear, since the area forms a part of the Nature2000 project.

murals - paintings created by leading artists (e.g. Dwurnik, Pągowski, Bagiński) on Besides, it is a great starting point to take a closer look at the area that offers so much the walls of buildings scattered in various parts of the city. They are devoted to the more. For those who get bored of flat riding or not, but want to see something more questions of tolerance, peace and breaking barriers - today’s Oświęcim has been in the area, I recommend a bicycle „side jump” on the Papal Trail heading straight called the City of Peace and it indeed creates such image.

to Wadowice. These are the mountain regions - Beskid is on the horizon, the road 30

31

becomes a little bumpy and you can feel it! Losing your breath is more than guaranteed, which „throw” us onto the Vistula Boulevards in

but also some amazing views. And the fact that you will experience all that about 20

Cracow in the neighbourhood of the royal Wawel

kilometers from the Wiślana Trasa Rowerowa? You can use a snake move, a zigzag, or go Castle. The path offers a picturesque view of the

straight, you can also go back, if you prefer. And there, whether religious or not, it really green hill of the Bielańsko-Tyniecki Landscape does not matter, because the Museum - the Family Home of the Holy Father John Paul Park situated on the other side of the Vistula II is a piece of the Polish and world history presented through the prism of the Pope. The river and the white shape of the Assumption of

Wiślana Trasa Rowerowa becomes more and more distant, but only a dozen kilometers the Blessed Virgin Mary church. Cracow never

separates Wadowice from Kalwaria Zebrzydowska! It is the only calvary in the world that disappoints. Who has never experienced the city

has been included in the UNESCO World Heritage List. It combines natural beauty with

- let him stay even for a day. I stayed even longer, spiritual goals and the principles of the greenery architecture and the composition of the before I set off to the second stage of my trip baroque park. And at the end of the ‚side jump’, two kilometers of pushing the bike uphill following the Wiślana Trasa Rowerowa heading

to Lanckorona, whose the greatest pride of which is wooden architecture and a steep east of Cracow - I will tell you about it in the next market square situated on 9.5% of the slope, where it is worth stopping for a coffee.

part of my story.

FOR EVERYONE, MULTI-DAY TRIPS

WÓ

WYGIEŁZÓW PARK

GIĘZ

WY

route fit for everyone, also for families with children

easy route

time required to travel the route: 2 days

the length of the route: c.a. 80 km without „deviations”

recommended type of the bicycle: any type will do  WIŚLANA TRASA ROWEROWA TO CRACOW

HARMĘŻE

• Oświęcim

Let’s go back to the area of Zator to the Wiślana Trasa Rowerowa.

Assuming that there were no „side jumps” - between Rozkochów and

• Mętków

Okleśna, the Vistula embankments are being renovated and a detour

• Wygiełzów

along local peaceful roads was marked. In fact, it’s a nice diversion. In Okleśna, we can choose - either continue the ride on the northern side

• Dolina Karpia [the Carp Valley]

of the Vistula along a local road - the only climb to the village of Kamień

• Zator

awaits us there, or take the ferry to the other side to Spytkowice and follow local roads (de facto along the „old” Wiślana Trasa Rowerowa) to

• Wadowice

the village of Łączany. I chose the latter (which leads mostly along local

• Kalwaria Zebrzydowska

roads) to gain some time - it was already getting late, and I wanted to get to Tyniec to stay overnight. The Benedictine abbey in Tyniec is another

• Lanckorona

place that I did not want to miss. It is the oldest existing monastery in

• Rozkochów

Poland with a rich, over 1000-year-old history. In the Tyniec - Cracow section, Wiślana Trasa Rowerowa leads again along river embankments,

• Okleśna

• Tyniec

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posted 27.07.2020

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PAPROCANY

CZECHOWICE -DZIEDZIC

KATOWIC

5

VELODUNAJEC:

WIETRZYCHOWICE -

STARY SĄCZ WITH ALICJA

RAPSIEWICZ

AND ANDRZEJ BUDNIK

BY THE BLUE DUNAJEC

The major part of the route that we travelled from Cracow to Stary Sącz runs along (often, literally, even riding on the embankment as such) rivers - the Vistula river, and then the Dunajec. The route has the following name - and so along the Vistula River runs the Wiślana Trasa Rowerowa, whereas VeloDunajec goes further south. We also had the pleasure of turning off the route at Niepołomice

into the VeloNatura route and entering the

beautiful Forest of Niepołomice.

FROM CRACOW BY THE WIŚLANA TRASA ROWEROWA HEADING

TOWARDS VELODUNAJEC

We started our adventure in Cracow, near the Wawel castle, with VeloMałopolska.

This section of the route is also called the Wiślana Trasa Rowerowa (WTR) . After several dozen kilometres, reaching the mouth of the Dunajec River, we approached an intersection of bicycle routes. In order to continue the ride along the Wiślana Trasa Rowerowa, you need to cross the Dunajec by ferry and get on the Vistula embankment.

ON THE ROUTE

36

37

TRAVELLING THE VELODUNAJEC ROUTE

We do not continue the Wiślana Trasa Rowerowa ride, but we enter the VeloDunajec trail and for the next several dozen kilometres, we ride along the embankments of the Dunajec river. The landscape is similar to the one accompanying the Vistula River

- and I’m not making a sensation here - the route is also well prepared and runs in the close neighbourhood of the dwelling area, so you can see the countryside of the Małopolska region from the inside. We are slowly heading towards the village of Ostrów, where we come across another intersection. This time VeloDunajec meets the VeloNatura route running from Niepołomice to Tarnów. Here we also have a few options that I’d like to present:

1) From VeloDunajec, you can turn west (right) towards Niepołomice (Wola Batorska) and this way you will cleverly loop from Cracow to Cracow (from Niepołomice to Niepołomice).

2) You can also continue riding further south, but take into account that this is where VeloDunajec ends and its next (planned) section has to be covered by detours (along municipal and national roads). I strongly advise all road bikes users and the owners of other bikes with narrow tires against choosing this option because you will only get tired. We wanted to follow the VeloDunajec route and so we did, but we do not recommend this option, for the reasons described below.

3) You can also turn east (left) towards Tarnów. Knowing what I know today, I would have chosen that option. In Tarnów, I would take the train to Nowy Sącz and in this way, we would have avoided a section of the VeloDunajec route, which is not ready yet, and we would enter the beautiful scenic bicycle paths near Nowy Sącz, which would lead us through Stary Sącz towards Nowy Targ and Zakopane. The disadvantage of this solution is the omission of Roznowskie Lake. Something’s lost and something’s gained, that’s the way life goes. Here we wanted to outsmart the system and keeping in mind our Asian journeys through Tajik or Afghan Pamir, we thought: „the lack of bicycle path is not a big deal for us!” The first section of the route after we passed the intersection was slightly bumpy. Passing under the railway viaduct, we entered a tractor road and after about 2 km, we reached some kind of a „highway” (as the local people call it). This „highway” was an ordinary road running from one village to another, quite narrow and winding, but there was no traffic at all. We travelled all the way to Zakliczyn, where we had to decide whether to continue our journey along the Dunajec river, or whether we should choose the faster option and travel through the hills to Roznowskie Lake. We chose the latter solution only because the sky got dark, it started to drizzle and we decided that it was better to follow the road where we could find some shelte from the downpour, if necessary. Tired, soaked and stressed because of the trucks pushing us off the road (provincial road no.

975), just before the sunset we reached a place called Gródek nad Rożnowem. As a consolation, we got a chance to admire a beautiful show that nature gave us at the Lake Rożnowskie, so we definitely have something to remember! A few days later, we 38

39

learned from Jarek from the @VeloMalopolska profile that the construction works on the several-kilometres long section of VeloDunajec from Zakliczyn to Czchów had just been completed, so it was possible that on that day we would make a different choice.

After replenishing the calories and a good night’s sleep on the campsite, we move on towards Nowy Sącz.

We had about 12 km left that we had to travel along the provincial road no. 975 in order to return to the VeloDunajec trail in Wielopole. Going towards Nowy Sącz, right behind the production halls belonging to the Wiśniowski company, there is an inconspicuous (paved) road turning right - you have to turn there and after about 2-minute ride, you will enter a brand new bicycle path that will take you straight to Nowy Sącz. When we rode back to VeloDunajec in Wielopole right before Nowy Sącz, we felt...relief! In fact, the whole pleasure of following the paths of the VeloMałopolska FOR EVERYONE, MULTI-DAY TRIPS

ON THE MARKET SQUARE

IN STARY SĄCZ

ZALIPIE

the route is perfect for everyone, including families with children (except for the sections of VeloDunajec that are not ready yet, which requires going along roads with heavy car traffic)

easy route

the route length: Cracow - Stary Sącz 195 km (4 days), route gets the well-deserved appreciation only when you get back on its track after riding national or provincial roads. Peace and silence, no cars,

Wietrzychowice - Stary Sącz 100 km (2 days)

greenery, river, the feeling of being free from any worries and this almost

recommended type of bike: any type of bike will do hypnotic rhythm that you fall into after a few kilometres of cycling! Have you ever experienced this sensation? I do really love it - in my opinion, it is the true essence of cycling! In addition, the route leads through beautiful groves, amazing bicycle footbridges crossing the Dunajec river and this amazing place called Bobrowisko, which is located in the neighbourhood of Stary Sącz. We finished our trip on the Market Square in Stary Sącz.

Here, again, we had a chance to try on traditional costumes of highlanders

• • Ostrów (skrzyżowanie z VeloNatura)

WIETRZYCHOWICE

from Nowy Sącz and we took a few shots for our promotional video about VeloMałopolska - we attach the link hereinbelow.

• Zakliczyn

• • Gródek nad Dunajcem (poza VeloDunajec)

Video from the trip

STARY SĄCZ

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ABOUT THE BLOGGERS:

Park

Tropie

Roztoka-

1944

Rzepiennik

Drużków

Dzierżaniny

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6

IN THE POPRAD VALLEY

WITH JAREK TARAŃSKI

A BICYCLE „EL POPRADO”, EV 11 - THE POPRAD

VALLEY, KRYNICA-ZDRÓJ - STARY SĄCZ

A suggestion of a trip through the Poprad Valley, which is also a summary of what has already been built there as a part of a new bicycle infrastructure under the VeloNatura / EuroVelo11, AquaVelo and VeloKrynica brands. Without any pricks of consciousness, I am inviting you to discover the charms of Beskid Sądecki by bike.

Let’s start with the easiest option, a one-day trip. All those who follow the VeloDunajec trail will be tempted with this variant of extending the trip and taking the route

through the market square of Stary Sącz

towards the railway station. At this point,

you take your bike and get on the train

heading to Krynica-Zdrój and for about

1.5 hour, you enjoy the ride along one

of the most picturesque railway lines in

Poland. While admiring the views through

train windows, pay attention to desolate

asphalt paths passing along the Slovak

and Polish border, because it will be your

way back home. Travelling by train in this

direction has one more advantage - you

will „cover” the full elevation of the terrain

and afterwards you will only have to ride

downhill along the river, although you will

have to go a little uphill anyway.

ON THE ROUTE

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45

The bicycle route between Krynica and Muszyna is practically a model combination of these two health resorts. A really gentle downhill ride awaits you, with almost no cars (if you are heading in this direction). This section is even suitable for riding with young children. I will not mention all of the attractions that you can visit on the way, but as the minimum, I plan to take a break in Muszyna at the regional Miejsce Obsługi Rowerzystów (MOR) (English: Cyclist Service Point), where not only can you visit the repair station with the possibility of charging your phone wirelessly, but also use the intake of a healing water called „Anna”. In Muszyna, via a rather

„square-like” connector, you enter Zapopradzie with its gardens stretching along Aleja Zdrojowa. You can either soak in for a few hours or just ride slowly, stopping to take a short break in the newly opened part of the gardens with recreational ponds and aviaries for birds. My personal goal was to teach the local talking parrot to say „Velo” instead of „Hello”.

Just outside the gardens, a slight climb awaits you because this part of the EV11

route leads along a concrete slope through forests that grow on the slopes of the river valley. It will take us to the Polish-Slovak border, where (attention!) I will have to convince you to observe the signs posted here and get off the bike (in both directions). This short (20-30 m) temporary section will soon be improved, but as for now, there are temporary wooden steps and handrails waiting for us. After trampling through this section carefully, we will take a new road with an improved gravel surface leading to the edge of the forest (approx. 0.5 km). It’s pretty tough here for now, but we’ll see how this slope road changes over time. For those who are concerned about their tires and blocks on this steep downhill, I simply recommend taking a detour between Muszyna and Milik along the provincial road.

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People traveling with children or beginners, I fairly warn you - at this point, you will Poprad Valley. However, I definitely recommend

probably have to take a 1.5 km walk due to these elevations and the surface.

making a longer bicycle trip reconnaissance, as However, I recommend taking this way to other cyclists because once you leave the construction works happening on the main

the forest behind, the freshly laid asphalt surface will rustle under your wheels on riverside route (which in the future will constitute a completely new section leading up to the buildings of Legnava. Once, all that you a part certified as an international EuroVelo11

could expect there was a dirt road and ploughed fields, but now the place is elegant route), was also a trigger for developing the and has equal standard as the international EuroVelo route. This way we will get to whole range of additional routes located in the one of the new Legnava-Milik pedestrian and bicycle footbridges, thanks to which we Beskid Sądecki region. Just remember that we will cross the river and country borders and we will be ready to discover new bicycle are travelling through the mountain areas and

routes on the Polish side, all the way to Andrzejówka, where by another footbridge each deviation from the river trail will be paid we will return to Slovakia to Mały Lipininek. A small note here - remember about the with a climb that may give you some hard time, basic cycling rules in force in Slovakia (including the obligatory helmet on our heads but if you get through it, your effort will be surely outside the built-up area), because we will travel another 15 km around this country.

rewarded with beautiful views from the mountain

tops and the mountain pass of Beskid Sądecki.

FOR EVERYONE, SINGLE-DAY

ON THE ROUTE

OUTE

TRIPS

route for everyone, including families with children ON THE R

easy / medium route (two more demanding climbs, one difficult section at the border of PL/SK in Muszyna)

time needed to complete the route: 8 hours

the route length: 62 km one way

recommended type of bike: any type of bike will do We return to the Polish side in Mniszek nad Popradem and follow the old border road to the center of Piwniczna. In 2020 a so-called recreation KRYNICA-center was built on Nakło, in Piwniczna. The project includes pedestrian ZDRÓJ

• Muszyna

and bicycle paths, two pumptracks and another footbridge dedicated to both pedestrians and cyclists crossing the Poprad river. Using the

• Legnava (SK)

footbridge we can get back to the EuroVelo 11 route.

Until then, in order to reach the other bank of the Poprad river we use the

• Andrzejówka

footbridge located next to the railway station. From here, we will travel only quiet and peaceful roads all the way to Rytro (some of them may be

• Mały Lipininek (SK)

under construction, because they are current-ly being slightly widened).

Part of this section already has an asphalt surface, but in the forests

• Mniszek nad Popradem (SK)

surrounding Rytors’ castle boroughs, the construction works of a new section to Życzanów are still underway (the trail will have an upgraded,

• Piwniczna-Zdrój

gravel surface). From Bar-cice to the footbridge located in Stary Sącz you travel along the well-marked EuroVelo11, a mixture of freshly developed cycle paths and public roads with low traffic, having the possibility of

• Rytro

stopping at resting areas in Barcice or Cyganowice.

The above suggestion is the easiest option of passing through the entire STARY SĄCZ

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ATTRACTIONS ON THE CYCLING ROUTE AROUND NOWA HUTA 7

We start our proper adventure with Nowa Huta at the Ronald Reagan Central Square which is surrounded by the historical, socialist architecture, making this CRACOW BY BICYCLE

district unique both in Poland and in Europe. Near the square you will find food WITH KASIA ŁASKAWIEC

trucks in the neighbourhood of the Cultural Center of Nowa Huta (also called the

& TOMEK SAWIRSKI

„NCK”)- just in time to get rolling on some chow before you set off. If you pass the NCK building, you will reach a large green clearing behind the building. The place is called Łąki Nowohuckie (Meadows of Nowa Huta) - one of the largest and most valuable natural areas of Cracow, with rare species of plants and birds.

When the green route along meadows finished, we turned north, towards the Cistercian Abbey in Mogiła, one of the oldest ones in Cracow. The Cistercians came here in 1222, invited by Bishop Iwo Odrowąż. Be sure to see Cracow church interior!

Though the abbey attracts thousands of followers, it would be a pity if you miss the inconspicuously looking wooden church of St. Bartholomeo the Apostle - included in the Wooden Architecture Trail, the building dates back to the first half of the 15th century! If you find it open - be sure to check the inside! Having visited Klasztorna FROM THE HEART OF CRACOW TO KAZIMIERZ THROUGH NOWA HUTA Street, we continued our trip following an elegant bicycle path towards the Nowa Huta Reservoir along which the Dłubnia river flows.

Behind the Reservoir, you will find some interesting places that could be reached Perhaps Nowa Huta is not the most touristic place in Cracow (yet) and is on a hiding through some gaps in the fence - but no worries, we chose a more legit route, so we to nothing in comparison with great monuments located in the historical part of the jumped back on the saddles and rode on.

city, but from our point of view, it definitely deserves more attention. It is not only a The first one is the wooden church of John the Baptist and Our Lady of the Scapular, metallurgical works with a smoke rising from chimneys of industrial factories, but also a originally built in the 17th century, in Jawornik near Myślenice and then moved to fascinating chapter in the socio-economic history of the city itself and Poland. Treat this Cracow in the 1980s. Several dozen meters further, you will find Jan Matejko’s bike trip as an interesting introduction to Cracow’s most fascinating corners. We hope Manor House, constructed in the 19th century, in the village of Krzesławice - which that this story will inspire you to actively visit

Nowa Huta and learn about its history.

HOW TO GET TO NOWA HUTA BY BIKE?

Planty, one of the largest city parks in Cracow,

was the starting point of our trip to Nowa Huta,

from where we headed east, along Kopernika

Street. Entering Nowa Huta on a bike shouldn’t

be a problem for anyone because the road is

flat, straight, and cycling paths are available practically along the entire route, which allows

you to avoid interference with car traffic.

Along the way we passed places, like the

the Botanical Garden of the Jagiellonian

University Park Lotników [the Aviators Park], or the the Stanisław Lem Science Garden, so

if there’s a long day ahead of you, maybe it is

worth taking a break at one of these places.

MOUND OF WANDA

52

53

nowadays is

in case of any trouble, you can always turn into the one of Cracow districts - where the artist lived and worked. From the Manor House, we allotments have passed before. Behind the Wanda

headed along quiet side streets towards Huta Sendzimir (the Steelworks of Sendzimir).

Bridge, we went uphill, where another section of This place is an amazing option for exploration enthusiasts - the cycling revolution Longinusa Podbipięty Street was awaiting us. The

has not arrived in this area yet, so we had some curbs to overcome. We dropped in route took us to the Wiślana Trasa Rowerowa

here to take a look at the entrance gate to the steelworks and the buildings of the running literally on the embankment. Riding this Administrative Center of Lenin’s Steelworks, known as the „Doge’s Palace”. These section is pure pleasure and it is an example of a

buildings are the crowning achievement of socialist realism movement in the history great quality bicycle path, with the exception of the of the Polish architecture. Both sites can be visited. Leaving the steelworks behind, we missing a foot and cycle bridge over Białucha and

headed towards the Wanda Mound - one of the four famous Cracow mounds, with the resulting necessity to push the bicycle over a

quite a decent origin, as it dates back between the 7th-8th century. A few hundred special rail onto the bridge.

meters away, after passing through pretty peculiar technical roads, history and Just a few more pedal pushes along the Vistula military enthusiasts won’t regret stopping at Fort Mogiła, built as part of the Cracow embankments and we reached the Father

Bernatek Footbridge. On the left, charming Podgórze, on the right, pubs of the Kazimierz district. The choice is yours!

FOR EVERYONE, SINGLE-DAY

NOWA HUTA

TRIPS

T MOGIŁA

FOR

the route is perfect for anyone who is not afraid of locals

infrastructure deficiencies

easy route

time needed to complete the route: 2 hours (without stops and sightseeing)

the route length: 28.5 km

Fortress at the end of the 19th century. Having taken a quick look at the

recommended type of bike: any type of bike will do fort, we headed towards the former village of Mogiła, but first, we had to overcome the hiking trail winding like a slalom track under the busy S7

road. Even today, while driving through Mogiła, you can see numerous CRACOW

• Planty

relics of the rural character of this district of Cracow. This is like a short time travel! The atmosphere here is quite idyllic, especially in the direct

• Nowa Huta

surrounding of the river. Later on, we headed towards the Vistula River, passing through Dłubnia and admiring still quite rural landscape of this

• Mogiła

part of Cracow.

• Longinus Podbipięta Street

Longinus Podbipięta Street

CYCLING ALONG THE VISTULA RIVER BY THE WIŚLANA TRASA ROWEROWA

We reached the busy Longinusa Podbipięty Street, but fortunately, there Vistula Embankments

Vistula Embankments

was only a 100-meter section interfering with high car traffic, and then, we drove to the other side of the road. We passed allotment gardens area (Wiślana Trasa Rowerowa)

and rode along the Vistula River, near the Yacht Club Polska Cracow. We did not see any bans on the way and nobody paid any attention to us, but CRACOW

• Father Bernatek Street

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to be there during a sunny day, you may also notice the Beskidy mountains tops 8

on the horizon. Cycling along the Vistula embankment, we pass the Camaldolese Monastery in Bielany built in the 17th century. The church and the monastery can CRACOW SURROUNDINGS

be visited, but you have to plan it well ...

Men are allowed to enter the monastery all year round at certain hours, and women WITH KASIA ŁASKAWIEC &

are allowed only a dozen times a year, only on selected holidays.

TOMEK SAWIRSKI

Going further, we will admire a famous Benedictine Monastery in Tyniec.

A perfect vantage point with the panoramic view of the Vistula River and the two abovementioned monasteries is Okrążek - the most photogenic, one of the whole group of the he Piekary Rocks.

The Palace in Piekary is another attraction on our route. The entrance to the palace and park complex is open, although the complex officially belongs to private owners (entry at your own risk). The residence with numerous ornamental turrets and a high tower is undoubtedly impressive, so it is such a shame that the residence condition is constantly deteriorating. We left Piekary and headed towards another town near Cracow - Kryspinów. The route led along a relatively quiet country road, but the closer to the Reservoir, the heavier the traffic was. Within the Kryspinow TRIP TO

area, you will find a cave called the Kryspinowska Cave, one of the longest caves in MNIKOWSKA VALLEY

the Jura. It is open to the public, but it is said to be difficult and narrow.

ALONG THE VISTULA RIVER BY BIKE

HEADING TOWARDS THE DOLINA MNIKOWSKA

Wasting no time, we headed towards Dolina Mnikowska (English: the Mnikowska We started the trip at the Vistula River and the „Queen of Polish Rivers”

Val ey). We passed through Mników, where, at the end of the village, a regular is the place, where the initial section of the route that we suggest runs.

road transformed into a muddy, forest and narrow path leading along the stream.

However, we will not follow the most popular trail leading along the Vistula We had two wooden bridges to cross. All in all, it was a very pleasant section, River through Kolna to Tyniec, but we will

surrounded by greenery and the sound of rustling water. This is the wildest part be cycling on the other side of the river.

of this valley. Going forward, you will find some benches, where you can rest, Starting from the Wawel Royal Castle up

gravel paths and trashcans, so you shouldn’t expect the wilderness just like the to the Kościuszko lock, cyclists can expect

one in other Cracow valleys. Nevertheless, it is a place with a specific atmosphere, an excellent asphalt surface and some

energizing with greenery and allowing you to admire beautiful limestone rocks interesting objects to see. The Przegorzały

scattered along the valley.

Castle rises on a high limestone hill over the Vistula River Valley.

This is probably one of the few „good”

things left after the German occupation

of Poland during the World War II. The

castle was built in the alpine style for

Nazi notables. We highly recommend the

viewpoint spreading from the restaurant

terrace, which guarantees a breathtaking

view over the the Vistula River Valley and if

you are lucky enough

ON THE ROUTE

58

59

CYCLING TO CRACOW

heavily automotive section. We are looking forward

to the completion of the investment project that Target achieved. We managed to see another of the Jurassic valleys near Cracow.

someday will connect Cracow and Trzebinia. Moving

It’s time to go back. Once we left the valley, we headed to the Półrzeczki Gorge, forward, behind the red markings, we reached

the entrance to which is on the other side of the road. Look for blue hiking trail, Bronowice. From there, riding along bicycle paths, because that’s the one we followed. The forest road led along a high slope above the we arrived to Błonia, where Bicycle Trail of the Eagles’

gorge overgrown mainly with a beech forest where limestone rocks rising from the Nests ends (or begins), leading through mesmerizing

high slope were covered with dense forest foliage. You need to appreciate creative landscapes of Jura Krakowsko-Częstochowska and

nomenclature, with which those stones were „sprinkled”: Moon Rock, Oak Rocks or castles founded by the King Casimir the Great. It is Sofa. In addition, you may spot some small caves hidden somewhere in the gorge.

already the end of this cycling adventure, but if you The ride through the Półrzeczki Gorge was very pleasant, but at the final section of are looking for cool ideas for cycling routes around the trail, we didn’t omit carrying the bikes uphill.

Cracow, check out our other entries.

FOR EVERYONE, SINGLE-DAY

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TRIPS

MNIKOWSKA VALLEY

IN TYNIEC

BENEDICTINE MONASTER

the route is perfect for anyone who can ride one

distance

average route difficulty

time needed to complete the route: 5h (without stops)

the route length: 53 km

recommended type of bike: terrain bike

Going further along the trail, we reached the vicinity of the A4 highway, where we were following a gravel road. Pursuing blue trail, we drove CRACOW

under the highway to pass the car park after a short section of an asphalt road and enter a forest road leading through another Jurassic valley on

• Piekary

our route - the Brzoskwinki Valley.

Today, the road leads through the forest and it is hard to believe that in

• Kryspinów

the past, those areas were used for grazing animals.

Leaving the Brzoskwinki Valley, we came across red bicycle trail that led us to Cracow. This is the famous Rowerowy Szlak Orlich Gniazd (English:

• Mników / the Mnikowska Valley

the Bicycle Trail of Eagles’ Nests). A good quality asphalt road runs through a forest, and since its slope is cyclist-friendly, it was an extremely pleasant

• the Półrzeczki Gorge

part of the route. After leaving the forest behind, on the other side of the road, you will come across the trail of VeloRudawa, i.e. one of the bicycle routes that makes a part of the VeloMałopolska project. This short, but good

• the Brzoskwinki Valley

quality section of Velo Rudawa runs along a busy road from Zabierzów to the Cracow municipality borders. The trail is only a few kilometers long so far, but it makes you feel safe while cycling along a lane separated from a

• Zabierzów

CRACOW

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On our way to Pychowicka Hill, we passed several people using outdoor gyms.

However, we were alone on the hill that day, and our gaze tried to encompass the whole space. Those meadows are truly unique areas - although civilization surrounds CRACOW OFF-ROAD

them more and more tightly with a cordon of office buildings and multi-family estates, WITH KASIA ŁASKAWIEC AND

there is still enough space for large mammals to live here - one day at dawn we even met a deer! Pheasants, roe deers, or wild boars are not an overly unusual sight -

TOMEK SAWIRSKI

notice, and we are talking about areas within the provincial city! We really adore Cracow for this “wildness” and we hope that the green areas reserved for nature conservation and recreation purposes will be preserved.

THROUGH MEADOWS AND FORESTS

In the vicinity of Pychowicka Hill, you can walk along quite wide, gravel paths, but how much more fun is looking for your own paths! Therefore, we deviated from the paved trails and made our way along the slightly muddy path. How much fun it is, when you suddenly bump into some surprised deer at the waterhole! So we got to Winnicka TRIP TO THE

Street and we got to the estates located at Laurowa Street (there is a bicycle path FOREST OF TYNIEC

along the entire section of this sometimes busy road). Just behind the newly built Get ready for a real off-road adventure - our trail will lead through fields,

„twinning” houses, we took a nice path leading through the forest wall. Oh, what a forest, hills and sometimes even through a bog! Experience those parts nice surprise it was! We felt a little bit envy at the sight of houses situated on the edge of Cracow which are hidden from tourists, and maybe even residents!

of the forest. However, the paved forest path was finished with a deviation towards a This is a route for those who are not afraid to walk the bike across the highway - a perfectly flat path began to wind, taking us off guard with more and more stream, climb the hills and rock the bumps. If your mountain bike got boggy surface and unexpected surprises in the form of fallen trees and small streams dusty in the basement - now a moment of glory awaits it!

that had to be skilfully crossed.

Our trekking beasts on two wheels suddenly felt a cross-country call and they bravely glided over dirt and mud. We also felt more and more fun, hearing in the background  THE ZAKRZÓWEK RESERVOIR AND

the highway sounds more clearly with every second. An interesting contradiction -

THE PYCHOWICKA HILL

somewhere, not far away, a line of cars was moving in rush, and here, right under our nose, a spring stream was rustling. But still, we wanted to get to the Forest of Tyniec.

We headed from the car park at

Twardowskiego Street in the Zakrzówek

area, which is easily accessible by bicycle

paths leading from other parts of the

city. We took Wyłom Street and headed

towards the campus of the Jagiellonian

University. Passed Kaufland supermarket,

we went down into the green areas of the

Jagiellonian University. This is where the

real off-road part of our trip begins!

FORESTS OF TYNIEC

64

65

FORESTS OF TYNIEC

Riding the Vistula embankment is a pure pleasure

that makes you forget and lose yourself easily -

It was time to cross the busy highway and head towards Podgórki Tynieckie. There and you should be vigilant cause those off-road we entered a beech forest exploding with greenery and a fun ride started for good -

ambitions that we had were to be satisfied, as sometimes uphill, sometimes downhill, just ahead! We were delighted - there was the having passed Skały Twardowskiego bus stop, we

abundance of trails and paths, so you could choose whatever you wanted from various took a turn heading towards Zakrzówek.

forest combinations. We were riding a little spontaneously, once coming across an MTB

One more uphill, one more downhill among the

track, once finding ourselves in the middle of the clover field, another time stopping at greenery and we finally found ourselves on the one of the many educational boards. We finally got to Obrońców Tyńca Street and two car park at Twardowskiego Street. Horses grazing

landmarks - the wayside shrine of Our Lady and the mass grave of Jews from Cracow in the neighbourhood looked at our sweaty faces

and surrounding towns, murdered in the forest and surrounding towns. We stopped suspiciously - well, compared to their daily mileage there for a moment because it is one of those places where you should stop by.

dragging cabs serving Cracow tourists, those 26

kilometers were not overly impressive.

FOR EVERYONE, SINGLE-DAY

TRIPS

ON THE ROUTE

OUTE

the route is perfect for anyone who appreciates not only asphalt surfaces ON THE R

cycle paths

medium difficult route

time needed to complete the route: 3 hours (without stops)

the route length: 26 km

recommended type of bike: terrain bike

ALONG THE VISTULA EMBANKMENTS

ZAKRZÓWEK

An asphalt route tempted with quick access to the abbey in Tyniec (if you

• Parking lot at Twardowskiego

haven’t been there yet, take a look), but we decided to go for another off-Street at Zakrzówek

road which ended up near Kolna. Passing the water park, we switched to

• Jagiellonian University Campus

the Vistula embankment and the Wiślana Trasa Rowerowa – those who prefer off-road instead of a comfortable embankment path, may choose a

• Pychowicka Hill

parallel, more gravel track.

• Winnicka Street

• Laurowa Street

• Podgórki Tynieckie

• Obrońców Tyńca Street

• Vistula Embankments [Wiślana

Trasa Rowerowa]

• Parking lot at Twardowskiego

Street at Zakrzówek

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NOWY TARG IS THE BEST CHOICE FOR THE STARTING POINT

10

During my last few visits to Podhale related to my trips along the Tatra Mountains trail, VeloDunajec and VeloCzorsztyn routes, Nowy Targ has always been my place of VELODUNAJEC

stay. The city’s location at the intersection of the above-named networks makes it the WITH SZYMON NITKA, THE

best starting point for cycling trips around the Podhale region.

AUTHOR OF THE ZNAJKRAJ.PL

ONE OF THE MOST ATTRACTIVE SECTIONS OF THE ROUTE

TRAVEL BLOG

The section of the VeloDunajec trail running from Nowy Targ to Czorsztyn Lake is one of the first built sections of this beautiful route. Apart from the addition of a few newly created bicycle routes at the beginning and at the end of the VeloDunajec trail,

nothing has changed in the course of the last two years. However, the fact of leading the route in the direct proximity of the Dunajec River banks in the vicinity of Nowy Targ and two impressive sections near Łopuszna and Harklowa, makes it still one of the most attractive sections of the entire Małopolska trail.

A BEAUTIFUL SCENE AT THE ŁOPUSZNA MANOR HOUSE

VELODUNAJEC : NOWY TARG –

CZORSZTYN LAKE

I highly recommend not to miss the place called Łopuszna on the route. There you will find are at least four spots worth seeing. At the local cemetery, you may find the  FROM NOWY TARG TO THE CZORSZTYN LAKE BY

grave of Fr. Józef Tischner, which we visited during our first trip around VeloDunajec.

THE VELODUNAJEC ROUTE

A little bit before the cemetery, closer to the Dunajec river, there is a the Church of the Holy Trinity and St. Anthony, the Abbot from the 15th century. Nearby, there is the VeloDunajec - a bicycle route in the region of Małopolska which Tetmajer Family Manor House enchanting with its form and an idyllic atmosphere I hailed „the most beautiful route in Poland” already two years during my visit, where in a closed yard in front of the manor house, horses were ago - continues to delight cyclists from all over Poland. The grazing carelessly. Currently, the manor is a branch of the Tatra Museum, devoted to newly created bicycle path leading along

the Tetmajer family and the Podhale tradition.

Czorsztyn Lake and paths connecting the

VeloDunajec Route with the Trail Around

the Tatra Mountains enable choosing

various scenarios of the first section of

the route. The second section - behind the

the Dunajec River Gorge - includes several

dozen kilometres of bicycle paths and even

bicycle bridges. Cycling from Zakopane to

Nowy Sącz is pretty much comfortable,

with a few exceptions.

ON THE ROUTE

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TROUT TARTARE IN ŁOPUSZNA

Those who do not despise the search for the local favours while traveling by bike should visit the restaurant belonging to the „Pstrąg” (English: „trout”) guesthouse in Łopuszna. Among dishes prepared from fresh fish freshly caught at a local fish farm, you may want to try a tartare made from raw trout meat. Interesting from the point of view of its origin, but not sweeping me off my feet, the flavour will be another memory that you will bring after your cycling trip around the Małopolska region. By the way, let me warn you that local gastronomic facilities close at early hour outside weekends and peak season. The restaurants close at 6:00 pm, so after that time, it may be hard to find a hot meal - the local gastronomy will be already closed.

WOODEN CHURCHES OF THE SOUTHERN MAŁOPOLSKA

Right before Czorsztyn Lake, around which the VeloDunajec route leads towards Niedzica, lies Dębno. The Church of St. Michael the Archangel is a „must-see point”

of your tour program. This is one of the six churches inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List under the entry of “Wooden churches of southern Małopolska”.

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WATER DAM AND WINE CELLARS IN FRYDMAN

AN EXTRA DAY BY CZORSZTYN LAKE

To visit the wooden church in Dębno, it is the best to stop on the flood embankment The town of Niedzica-Zamek is an important point in the place, where you will be able to see the church on the right-hand side and get of the route not only because of the picturesque view off the cycling route down the narrow steps towards the road. Once you get back of the castle towering over the waters of Czorsztyn

on the route, you will first pass under the bridge over the Dunajec river, then after Lake. If you plan further route, then right here, or in several hundred meters of riding on the flood embankment separating Dębno from the neighbouring „proper” Niedzica, you can stay for Czorsztyn Lake and another several hundred meters of the two-way lane on the next two consecutive nights while traveling along the road from Dębno to Niedzica, and then the two-kilometre section of the trail along the Dunajec river. This extra day can be dedicated either dam in Frydman starts. In this case, I always encourage you to go to the centre of to a trip along the section of the Tatra Mountains the village, before or after passing the water dam, where on one of the private farms trail that runs close to Niedzica, or to a fatigue-you will find original and well-preserved cellars, where wine imported from Hungary free trip around Czorsztyn Lake i.e. the so-called was once stored.

VeloCzorsztyn route. It is between Niedzica and Czorsztyn, where cruise ships and gondolas offer the transport services for cyclists.

FOR EVERYONE, SINGLE-DAY

FROM ABOVE

TRIPS

ORSZTYN LAKE

the route is perfect for everyone, including families with children THE CZ

easy route

time needed to complete the route: 3 hours

the route length: 34 km one way

recommended type of bike: any type of bike will do  THE CYCLING ROUTE BY THE CZORSZTYN LAKE

NOWY TARG

LAKEAnd once you leave Frydman behind ... a few hundred meters from the campsite by the lake, one of the most impressive, certainly in Poland and maybe also European, cycling investments begins. Running

• Łopuszna

a bicycle path on the southern shore of the Czorsztyn Lake required an incredible amount of construction and engineering work.

The scope of the field works is still marked by the fresh grassless soil, and many slopes required solid protection against landslides. For me it will always be a very unique example of determination and courage demonstrated by the designers of the VeloDunajec cycling route directly implementing the entire network of the VeloMałopolska bicycle routes.

I still wish that all Polish regions were lucky enough to have similar cycling visionaries who would be able convince local government officials to

• Dębno

their vision, who, in turn, would be competent enough to undertake the implementation of such a huge investment.

NIEDZICA–

ZAMEK

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DĘBNO AS A STARTING POINT ON THE VELOCZORSZTYN

11

There are several towns in the neighbourhood of Czorsztyn Lake, which can be VELOCZORSZTYN

successfully used as the starting and ending points for a bicycle trip around the lake -

WITH SZYMON NITKA - THE

including Dębno, Czorsztyn, Niedzica-Zamek and Frydman. As for me, Dębno turned out to be the most convenient starting point for a one-day trip around VeloCzorsztyn, AUTHOR OF ZNAJKRAJ.PL

with a large parking lot (payable - a few zlotys) located next to a 15th-century wooden TRVEL BLOG

church inscribed on the UNESCO cultural heritage list, thanks to which the village is widely recognized.

THIRTEEN KILOMETERS OF THE CYCLING ROUTE TO

CZORSZTYN

A wide asphalt bicycle road starts in the parking lot at the lake in Huby and leads through Kluszkowce to Czorsztyn. It is about thirteen kilometers of asphalt road mostly exclusively dedicated to cyclists, and with only a few short sections used by pedestrians and only a few cars reaching nearby properties. The trail runs in the VELOCZORSZTYN - 30 KM AROUND

immediate vicinity of the lake, has no major elevations and is accompanied along CZORSZTYN LAKE

its entire length by a parallel, sometimes heavily jagged shoreline of the lake. The bicycle path cuts repeatedly into a steep slope protected against slippage by concrete Let it by all and sundry foreign nations be known that Poles have a fortifications. It happens that the route is crossed by transverse streams, but in such lake of their own!!

cases the crossing is possible by footbridges - another important element of the A new, almost 30-kilometer bicycle route has been created by entire investment. In total, there are about ten of them on both shores of the lake Czorsztyn Lake in the Małopolska region, which is even several times and they undoubtedly add a more advanced appearance to the entire investment.

longer than its Alpine twin, a widely-known Garda Lake. A natural location, tourist attractions nearby, standard of the available bicycle routes and a great deal of work that was

done here make us include the new route

- the third one in the region of Małopolska

after the Szlak Wokół Tatrt (English: the

Trail around the Tatra Mountains) and

the VeloDunajec route - among the most

interesting bicycle routes in Europe.

The route officially named „Around the

Czorsztyn Lake” was given by the cyclists a

more practical nickname „VeloCzorsztyn”.

ON THE ROUTE

78

79

THE NATIONAL PARK DIDN’T AGREE TO THE BIKE ROUTE

The initial plans to build VeloCzorsztyn bicycle route assumed the construction of bicycle routes around the lake, including the area of the Pieniny National Park located between Czorsztyn and Niedzica. Due to the fact that the management of the national park did not agree to the investment, a cyclist wishing to go around Czorsztyn Lake has two options to choose from. The first one, a little bit more physically demanding, is a tour through the Pieniny Mountains - from Czorsztyn through Sromowce Wyżne to Niedzica, and the second one - a cruise or a gondola tour between Czorsztyn and Niedzica. The vast majority of cyclists choose the latter option, which is also an exotic attraction, and a bike can be taken on board of any of the local water transport means.

THE CZORSZTYN LAKE - THE CASTLES OF CZORSZTYN AND

NIEDZICA

A cruise on Czorsztyn Lake is also an opportunity to take a closer look at the castles located in Czorsztyn and Niedzica from a unique perspective. Forty years ago, both buildings stood on two opposite sides of the Dunajec valley, which was flooded with water dammed up by the water dam in Niedzica. Probably none of the inhabitants of the areas flooded in the 1980s expected that one day, several dozen meters over their heads, several dozen times a day....cyclists would be taking boat rides.

THE SOUTHERN SHORE WHERE THE VELODUNAJEC RUNS

The southern shore of Czorsztyn Lake along which the VeloDunajec cycling route runs, significantly differs from the northern one. Cyclists should expect a much more varied ride at this point, and a slightly more demanding climb to the village of Falsztyn may be considered as a specific culmination of this section. It is often described as difficult, but it is only a few hundred meters long and requires only a few, maybe a dozen or so minutes of a gentle push uphill on a lighter gear. A prize awaits its winners - an opportunity to admire multiple views over Czorsztyn Lake, inaccessible from the other, clearly more gently shaped side of the reservoir. When climbing up the Falsztyn elevation, it is worth to taking a look around and notice this geographical fact that this bicycle route crosses one of the Pieniny mountain ranges, the so-called Spiš Pieniny Mountains.

A RIDE ON THE RIDGE OF THE WATER DAM AND WINE CELLARS

A very unique moment on the route is the approximately two-kilometer-long ride literally on the ridge of the water dam protecting the village of Frydman against flooding by the waters of Czorsztyn Lake. It’s hard to deny yourself cycling around such an unusual construction, so I highly encourage you to visit the village before or after reaching the crown of the dam. Almost in the centre of Frydman, on the premises of a private farm, there is an entrance to centuries-old cellars where wine imported from Hungary used to be stored.

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THE MOST BEAUTIFUL POLISH REST ZONES FOR CYCLISTS

On the entire VeloCzorsztyn route, there are about seven newly built rest zones for cyclists. All of them have an original architectural design made with a „slight” support of a large amount of wood and decorated with local ornaments. Unfortunately, although the stops along the VeloCzorsztyn route are certainly the most beautiful bicycle „piece of furniture” used by cyclists in Poland, their design will certainly not protect cyclist against driving rain or wind. Selected stops have been additionally enriched with exhibitions of vintage photography of the area, flower beds, garbage cans and - of course - maps with description of tourist attractions located in their immediate vicinity.

FOR EVERYONE, SINGLE-DAY

ON THE ROUTE

OUTE

TRIPS

the route is perfect for everyone, including families with children ON THE R

easy route, one slightly more difficult section - climb to the village of Falsztyn

time needed to complete the route: 3 hours (including approx. 15

minute boat trip between the castles of Czorsztyn and Niedzica)

the route length: 32 km (including the cruise)

VELOCZORSZTYN AND VELODUNAJEC ROUTES

recommended type of bike: any type of bike will do COMPLEMENT EACH OTHER

The VeloCzorsztyn cycling route around Czorsztyn Lake with the local DĘBNO

accommodation base can become a very comfortable place to spend a weekend

• Kluszkowce

or even a few days in Podhale and its close neighbourhood. Dębno is only fifteen kilometers away from Nowy Targ, and in addition, the entire distance between those two locations may be covered by using the VeloDunajec paths.

• Czorsztyn

The same trail leads towards the other way to the Dunajec River Gorge - from Niedzica to the Red Monastery located on the Polish-Slovak border, there are only about twelve kilometres. A similar distance separates the Red Monastery

• Niedzica Castle

from Szczawnica.

Several years of local self-governments effort put into the development of the region’s bicycle offer, made Podhale and the area surrounding Czorsztyn Lake

• Falsztyn

the best place in Poland to spend a few days’ cycling holiday.

DĘBNO

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We start our trip in Łopuszna. The local museum is located in the historic Łopuszna 12

Manor. It presents the fate of the Tetmajer family and shows what life in Podhale looked like. Cycling along the pastures and following the VeloDunajec signs we leave the village behind. The trail goes further on a spectacular section leading along the SOMETHING FOR THE CYCLING

river, then it enters Harklowa. There we cross the river to the southern bank and GOURMANDS –

continue the ride following a flat road until we get to Dębno, where we sneak under WOJTEK GOJ RECOMMENDS

the bridge, enter the provincial road no. DW969 and then we reach the embankment overlooking the Lake. We go to the centre of the village to see the unique wooden Church of St. Michael the Archangel. If it’s open, it’s worth going inside - the multi-coloured polychromes make quite an impression.

We leave Dębno following the signs of the bicycle route no. 102. About 3 km of field and forest gravel path leads us to the asphalt road and the centre of Nowa Biała, a village located in Spisz. It has retained the traditional, linear and spindle-shaped urban layout characteristic for the region of Spisz. The houses are lined up in a row with a parallel line of barns located behind them. We join the Trail around the Tatra Mountains heading towards Nowy Targ, travelling through meadows and pastures into the west accompanied by panoramic views over the Gorce and Tatra Mountains BETWEEN THE CITY AND THE LAKE

and interesting rock formations of the Pieniny Klippen Belt. We go round one of the rocks - called the Cisowa Skałka, behind which,

ŁOPUSZNA - VELODUNAJEC TO DĘBNO -

CZORSZTYN LAKE - CHURCH IN DĘBNO - ALONG THE

BIAŁKA RIVER - NOWA BIAŁA - SZLAK WOKÓŁ TATR

TO GRONKOWA - BÓR NA CZERWONEM NATURE

RESERVE - NOWY TARG VELODUNAJEC - ŁOPUSZNA

A long, but not difficult trip, in addition

90% of the track is separated from the

car traffic . Leading through peaceful and

quite villages, the route gives you a chance

of enjoying the ride along the picturesque

Dunajec river and admire the riverside

nature. Łopuszna, Dębno and Nowa

Biała attract tourists with interesting

monuments. The trip programme also

includes Czorsztyn Lake the Tatra

Mountains and the Gorce Mountains

views, as well as cycling on forest gravel

paths leading over the Białka river and through the Bór na Czerwonem peat bog

reserve. In short - a wholesome and varied

dish for every cycling gourmand.

ON THE ROUTE

86

87

in Gronków, we imperceptibly return Podhale.

We cross the centre of the village, always following the asphalt Trail around the Tatra Mountains. At some point, asphalt gives way to gravel, letting us

know about the proximity of the protected area of peat bogs. The next 6 km of the route is a ride

through unusual wet forest areas covering the

unique bog reserve called Bór na Czerwonem.

We leave Bialy Dunajec near the airport, where we switch back to VeloDunajec asphalt trail and we

ride along the shore until we reach the end of the

route - at first, with a view of Nowy Targ, and then through a picturesque section of the confluence area of the Biały and Czarny Dunajec rivers, as far as Waksmund, then through Ostrowsko and to Łopuszna, where our trip ends.

FOR EVERYONE, SINGLE-DAY

TRIPS

DĘBNO

the route is perfect for everyone, including families with children, but an average cycling experience is required

easy route, 90% of the track is separated from the car traffic

time needed to complete the route: 5 hours

the route length: 39 km

recommended type of bike: terrain bike

ŁOPUSZNA

• Harklowa

• Dębno

• Nowa Biała

• Gronków

• Nowy Targ

• Waksmund

ŁOPUSZNA

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I would like to point out right away that the kilometres that we indicate here are only 13

estimation - this also applies to the GPS trace, which you can download from our website. When riding with a child, we sometimes turn back several dozen or several THE CARP VALLEY -

hundred meters (because, for example, we need to go back and cheer up a child who ON TWO WHEELS

suddenly has run out of steam), or we go round in circles for no apparent reason (e.g.

WITH KASIA PUSTELNY -

we rescue beetles that crawl out onto a forest path or we simply take a wrong turn).

SZEWCZYK AND

We cross the main road and wander for another several hundred meters between the houses, to finally reach the pond complex in Przeręb (3.8 km from the starting MARK SZEWCZYK

point). The bicycle route is quite well marked (this section is a part of the Wiślana Trasa Rowerowa - the so called WTR) and it’s hard to get lost. The only drawback are huge puddles and mud on the route. But we manage to get around everything without major losses, although it was not possible without a close encounter with the ground - fortunately, the mud was a bit more dry there. We also managed to spot the cranes with easily identifiable huge structures of the Energylandia amusement park in the background. Riding through the ponds, we reach the Przeciszów nature reserve (10 km), which we decided to go around (there are no designated paths in the reserve itself). While looping around the reserve, we make a short trip to the west THE CARP VALLEY IN ZATOR

to take a look at the Żaki reserve (12.5 km).

THE CARP VALLEY IN ZATOR

If you like to ride a bike and admire nature at the same time, we have another trip suggestion for you. Wonderful ponds, wild birds and uncrowded bike trails. This is what the Carp Valley in Zator looks like.

If you know the the Barycz Valley, you will surely be delighted with the Carp Valley located in the neighbourhood of Zator. It is already our second visit here. Previously,

we visited Spytkowice Ponds. We start our

route in the parking lot at the church in

Palczowice, where we switch from car to

bicycles. We head west over the bridge

crossing the Skawa river to eventually

reach the village of Podolsze after

approximately 2-kilometer ride.

ON THE ROUTE

92

93

We go back and continue along the western border of the Przeciszów reserve. We take a dirt road to Podlesie (16.5 km) and head south. We cross DK44 road and keep wandering between the houses, until we reach the end of the road (21.5

km). The road to the right leads to Polanka Wielka, but we choose to turn left, to the east. We pass the Bachórz stream, cycling along the ponds of the same name and after c.a. 1300 m we reach the next intersection. Then we turn right, south, towards Piotrowice. There, at the main intersection (24.4 km), we take the left turn towards Zator. The entire section from DK44 road to the intersection in Piotrowice (ap-prox. 6 km long) is mostly a gentle climb. The rest of the route is flat, with a few small ascents and descents. We drive for a few kilometers towards Zator, turn right on the outskirts of Zator and enter the Bugaj pond complex. Between the ponds, we reach road no. 781, connecting Zator and Andrychów (31 km). We ride approx. 700 m to the south, then turn left into Srebrna Street. After another several hundred meters, at the mill, the road turns sharply left (33 km).

94

95

We continue more or less straight, until we reach road no. DK28, connecting  THE CARP VALLEY - PRACTICAL

Zator and Wadowice (34.5 km). We turn left and after approx. 100 m right INFORMATION

into the narrow street between the houses. The black bicycle trail will lead us further - it is difficult to miss the plates with the castle image on them.

If you would like to see all the ponds in the Carp

We go north, along a gravel path, winding among picturesque ponds. Be Valley, you need a lot of time. In our opinion, sure to make a short stop here. We pass Zatorland (38.5 km), turn right a it is a good idea to plan a few separate trips to

bit further into Zamkowa Street and we reach to DK44 road (40 km). Here the Valley. Our first visit there was some time we turn right, cross the bridge over the Skawa river and a few hundred ago - we were wandering around the Spytkowice

meters further, we turn left, returning to Palczowice, where we started ponds area (about 13 km). This time we decided our route.

to go for a longer trip and we will definitely come

back there again one day. The last trip covered about 41 km. Several places along the route

really delighted us. Unfortunately, the ride was the least fun, considerably long sections of the route covered roads with heavy traffic.

FAMILY, SINGLE-DAY TRIPS

ON THE ROUTE

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the route is perfect for everyone, including families with children ON THE R

easy route

time needed to complete the route: 7 hours

the route length: 41 km

recommended type of bike: cross, trekking, MTB or gravel (approx.

20-30% of the route is gravel, the rest - asphalt surface)  THE PARK OF MYTHOLOGY ON THE WATER IN ZATOR

We have always avoided the crowds, especially now. When PALCZOWICE

• Podolsze

we plan a new trip we feel as we were running away.

Therefore, you will not find here any recommendation of amusement parks that are now springing up like mushrooms

• Podlesie

in the vicinity of Zator. We already knew about Energylandia and Zatorland parks, but the Park of Mythology came as a surprise. See for yourself.

• Piotrowice

• Zator

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WIŚLANA TRASA ROWEROWA

FOR FAMILIES - WITH KASIA

PUSTELNY- SZEWCZYK AND

MAREK SZEWCZYK

CYCLING ALONG THE VISTULA RIVER FROM

UJŚCIE JEZUICKIE TO SZCZUCIN

views. Unfortunately, we did not have an opportunity to check all the existing routes.

Almost throughout the way, we were pretty scared of dark clouds, we even got a It seems that we really got to like longer cycling tours, in particular little bit wet because of drizzle, luckily, only to see the sun again. More or less in the those aimed on exploring new sections of the Wiślana Trasa middle of the route, you will reach the second MOR point located in Pawłów. I have to Rowerowa. And when it turned out that we had a company willing to admit that these facilities are really well prepared - they are fitted with toilets, roofed participate in such trips, it did not take long to persuade us to set off shelters with a table and a place to seat and bicycle service posts. Our goal was to for another trip. This time we decided to cover the route from Cracow reach the MOR in Szczucin. There was a car waiting for us.

by car. The Ujście Jezuickie - Szczucin route is an ideal section for It is also worth stopping for a while in Szczucin itself. There is a small market with a families with children. The entire trail runs

historical church. Be sure to try the local ice cream at the Dudek ice cream parlour -

along the bicycle path on the embankment

they are really delicious. If you are looking for a place for dinner, Karczma i Restauracja right next to the Vistula River. We start our

Staropolska [Stropolska Inn and Restaurant] seemed to be a very tempting place.

journey at the Miejsce Obsługi Rowerzystów

(MOR) (English: the Cyclist Service Point) in

WIŚLANA TRASA ROWEROWA - PRACTICAL INFORMATION

Ujście Jezuickie. Here you can also leave

your car on a spacious

On the route, you will find only one MOR which located in Pawłów. If you are going parking lot. The route is utterly picturesque

on such a trip having two cars at your disposal - it’s worth organizing it beforehand, and on the way, you will find several spots,

so that you don’t need to go back to the starting point to pick up your car - just leave where you can stop by the Vistula River and

another car at the finish line and then come back to collect the first car from where have a family picnic or enjoy the idyllic

you set off. When our boys went to get the car, we got to know the charms of Szczucin.

Thought by previous experience - a nail stuck in one of our tires, we had to revise the list of items needed to go on a longer bicycle route. When going on a bike trip, it is worth having with you the following items:

•

water supply,

•

sandwiches, snacks,

•

sun cream,

•

something to protect you from rain,

•

bicycle first aid kit - patches, glue, spare tubes.

ON THE ROUTE

Soon we will take you on another bicycle trips.

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in the background. Selecting this route was not accidental. The commune of Łącko 15

is famous for its fruit orchards, so it was a perfect time (spring) to observe the blooming trees everywhere.

VELODUNAJEC:

Our journey through the commune of Łącko started in Zabrzeż and ended in ZABRZEŻ – KADCZA

the village of Kadcza. We had less than 13 kilometres to cover one way, a half of

– KADCZA WITH THE

our route was leading on public roads, fortunately, with very little car traffic. We MAZUREK FAMILY

parked the car in front of the church in Zabrze and after spotting the VeloDunajec sign, we hit the road. We crossed the bridge over Dunajec to the other side of the river and found ourselves in Zarzecze village. When we passed the last buildings, what we saw was vast meadows and trees blooming all around us. Even though we were riding on a public road, we did not come across a single car, so the ride was extremely comfortable and it was really hard not to turn your head 360◦ all over again, or not to take a short break to snap some photos :-) However, not only the picturesque views deserve attention and recognition, we must also appreciate the marking of the route. There are so many sign posts with the VeloDunajec symbol that without even glancing at the map every now and then, taking the right direction was a cakewalk. Each crossover, each intersection was WITH BESKID SĄDECKI IN THE BACKGROUND,

well marked, so our ride was very smooth. After reaching Łącko, we crossed the I.E. THE COMUNE OF ŁĄCKO ON TWO WHEELS

Dunajec river again by a pedestrian-bicycle footbridge. Then we entered into a very comfortable bicycle path that we followed for the next four kilometres. If you feel Cycling, as well as hiking, is what we like doing the most, and if like taking a longer break, in Łącko you will find a well-prepared recreation area, there is a chance to combine mountains with bikes, it can’t get any better :-) And it does not mean that we have to take our bikes with us on mountain trails right away. As long as we can go for a ride with the mountains in the background, we have everything we need. One of the most beautiful cycling routes in Małopolska is the Szlak wokół Tatr (English: the Trail around the Tatrt Mountains) and for a long

time, we considered it to be our number

one. However, everything changed, when

we decided to check the VeloDunajec

route and covered one of its sections

running along Czorsztyn Lake and the

one running through the Dunajec Gorge.

These two rides made the VeloDunajec

route jump to the first place and there was

no option, but to award it with the title of

the most beautiful route in Małopolska

that we always keep on coming back to

with great pleasure . No wonder that the

Dunajec region attracted us once again.

This time we decided to choose the section

running through the commune of Łącko

with the Beskid Sądecki mountain range

ON THE ROUTE

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located near the river, or you may direct your footsteps towards the centre of the village.

When we reached the village of Maszkowice, the bicycle path ended and we entered a general traffic road again, which we travelled through the next four kilometres. However, those were not usual four kilometres, as right before the village of Jazowsko, we had to face an uphill section of the route (17% slope). Over the top and a long, flowing and very pleasant downhill ride awaited us leading to the last stage of our trip - the bicycle path connecting Jazowsko with the village of Kadcza. After reaching another bridge over the Dunajec river in Kadcza, we turned back and went on the same route to Zabrze, making a short stop at the MOR point. Of course when we got to Jazowska, we had to face a „friendly” uphill (19% slope) again, but our efforts were rewarded by a relaxing downhill ride, so, all in all, every cloud has a silver lining:-) When we found ourselves in Zarzecze again, we grabbed a portion of delicious juice from the Maurera Press, which you can buy in a specially designed juice dispenser. It was a very nice touch to end this amazingly satisfactory bike trip. We travelled through another - fourth - section of the VeloDunajec route and for sure it won’t be the last one! Our secret plan is to cover the entire VeloDunajec trail :-) The route crossing the commune of Łącko turned out to be remarkably picturesque, with trees blooming all around us and the scent of flowers floating in the air was definitely what we needed to recharge our batteries for another week.

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Initially, our path followed the same road that led to the blue hiking trail to the 16

PTTK Polskie Towarzystwo Turystyczno-Krajoznawcze (English: the Polish Tourist and Sightseeing Society) shelter in Turbacz. On the way, we passed a camping CYCLING THROUGH THE

site Oberówka, and when we reached the fork of the trails, the blue one turned VALLEY OF THE ALDER

right into the forest, and we rode along a wide, stony road heading to the Valley of STREAM WITH THE

the Alder Stream. Our route began to go uphill, which of course required more effort on our part. Nonetheless, the climb was comfortable and the surrounding MAZUREK FAMILY

trees brought us some relief. After reaching the Stara Huta Glade, we stopped for a short break and went further ahead. When we reached the next stopping point, our climb was slowly coming to an end as the last, little hill was waiting for us. Once we passed it, our path began to flatten out, and then a long and relaxing descent began, during which we crossed the blue hiking trail leading towards Turbacz. After reaching Czarne Błota, we found ourselves at a fork of the trail -

our route leading to the Hucisko Glade turned right, and the route to Tobołczyk turned left. Although the idea of continuing the trip was very tempting, we decided to come back to Koninki. On the way, we passed the amphibian tanks and before we knew it, we reached the Hucisko Glade. The entire ride took us a little over an GORCE MOUNTAINS WITH CHILDREN

hour, including stops. Our first struggles with the Gorce cycling routes turned out to be very promising. Although the mountain terrain is much more demanding, especially for our daughter who accompanied us on this trip, we were all bitten Even though it was obvious for us that the Gorce Mountains are by the travel bug.

not only hiking trails, but also fascinating bicycle routes, we had never had the opportunity to test them before. This state of affairs changed at the beginning of August, when we set off on our first mountain bike adventure. For our first route, we chose a not very long loop, only 9 kilometres long, starting and ending with the Hucisko Glade. The Hucisko

Glade is situated on the edge of Koninek

and the Gorczański National Park, at the

confluence of two streams: Olszowy and

Turbacz. Exactly at that point, we entered

the red bicycle trail that seemed interesting

to us.

ON THE ROUTE

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Valuable tips:

• The red bicycle trail that begins and ends at the Hucisko Glade (Koninki) runs along a wide, rocky road;

• The trail is located in the Gorczański National Park, therefore, an entrance to the Park fee has to be paid;

• There are several places on the cycle route where you can make a stop;

• It took us over an hour to ride the entire loop, including several stops;

• This route, due to the rocky ground, is not suitable for road or city bikes, in our opinion, it can be covered with a child in a trailer, under condition that we have mastered cycling in such terrain;

• When coming to Koninki by car, you can park your car in a large, paid car park.

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posted 12.08.2019

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Astronomical Observatory in Suhor

The route from Rudno to the Chechło Reservoir is a great suggestion for 17

everyone; however, I’m pretty sure that travelling parents will appreciate this route the most. Its biggest advantage is that it runs mostly along forest roads, FROM RUDNO TO THE

separated from car traffic. You can come across some cars while riding next CHECHŁO RESERVOIR

to car parks and on the last, approximately 3-kilometer section running along a public road leading straight to the shore of the Chechło Reservoir. Another WITH THE MAZUREK FAMILY

advantage is that the route is wide, so you can easily pass other cyclists coming from the opposite direction. As for the surface, there are sections, where you ride on asphalt, but also those, where you move on gravel roads. There is also a short section across a meadow, where the path is a bit narrower and a typical forest section, where you have to ride over tree roots. In our opinion, the route is easy and pleasant, without obvious ascents or descents, although the trail leading from the direction of Rudno it is slightly downhill in some places, which of course means that on your way back, you will have to push the pedals a little bit harder, although we didn’t put too much effort in it.

DULOWSKA FOREST BY BIKE

Located on the border of Cracow and Chrzanów districts, the Dulowska Forest is another brilliant place on the map of the Małopolska region. This impressive forest complex is the remnant of an ancient forest, through which a very nice bicycle route runs.

The route leads from Rudno, through the Dulowska Forest and ends with the Chechło Reservoir. The trail is marked with a blue colour and is approximately 14 kilometers long.

It starts at the parking lot located right

under the Tenczyn Castle and ends with

the Chechło Reservoir which is located on

the edge of the Dulowska Forest. This route

gives you a chance to visit the ruins of the

Tenczyn Castle and arrange a very nice stop

at the Chechło Reservoir, which from the

perspective of the A4 motorway has been

really well developed. Along the way, there

are also several places to stop and relax,

additionally equipped with educational

boards, so you can learn some interesting

facts about the flora and fauna located

within the forest area.

ON THE ROUTE

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What we definitely noticed is that the route is amazingly picturesque and on the September afternoon, you can breathe the scent of incoming autumn floating in the air. This place is also quite popular, so you shouldn’t expect to have a chance to wander among lonely forest paths. The situation is similar in the case of the Chechło Reservoir. It is eagerly visited by crowds and this is certainly due to the excellent land management. Everything has been thoroughly planned. At the Chechło Reservoir, you will find a very nice playground, a beach, food outlets, toilets, a volleyball court, a badminton court, an observation tower and the option to rent water equipment. This place made a good impression on us and, although we tend to avoid such attractions, in this specific case, we think that the reservoir is really worth visiting. It’s a great place to take a break, especially when our children are keeping us company. We returned to Rudno along the same route, although there were several unmarked routes branching off from the blue trail, so it is certainly possible to plan the way back following new undiscovered paths.

As it was already getting late, we preferred to stick to the blue trail that we already knew, but we will definitely visit this area again, so there will be an opportunity to discover other places.

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it turned out that one of the two sleeping bags stayed at home. So, as you can see, 18

with such a combination of adverse events, that day really provided us with a huge baggage of extra emotions. Luckily, we managed to overcome those adversities. We BESKID SĄDECKI

started our trip in Szczawnica, from where following a bike trail we entered EXTREME EDITION

Przehyba. The temperature in the valley was barely 5 degrees, but luckily, soon after WITH OLA AND SZYMON

we left the parking lot, we left the shade behind and the sun rays started to warm us ROCHOWIAK

up (the uphill also kept us warm quite well by the way). Halfway through the uphill, we were „attacked” by a herd of sheep that was coming down from the mountains. we had never seen such a large number of these animals before - over 1.500 animals walked, walked and walked, and there was no end to be seen!

After reaching Przehyba, as our first ride downhill, we choose the blue trail leading to Rytro. We rode it down to the gravel road in the valley. Generally, the trail is very interesting and diversified - in many places, the trail requires a lot of attention and extra skills from the cyclist. A few steep passages, but there are also sections, where you can just „let yourself go”. Fallen leaves made our downhill ride a little bit more difficult, cause we additionally had to watch out for any potential surprises hiding underneath them.

PRZEHYBA IN YELLOW AND BLUE - BESKID SĄDECKI

As the second ascent of the day - from the Roztoka Wielka Valley, we chose the ski trail leading through the Konieczna Hall. The beginning of the route is quite bearable, but after a kilometer, a sloppy section begins and it continues practically Ola and I visit Beskid Sądecki from time to time because the up to the Konieczna Hall, and only after this point, the trail begins to flatten a bit. It region has much to offer, when it comes to cyclists, especially in the is undoubtedly a demanding climb. Paved gravel ground holds the wheel, but the mountains. This time we wanted to visit the area, meaning to go down angle/slope lifts the handlebars in some places. But it is feasible to reach the top.

and explore few new paths that at least one of us did not know before.

Having reached Przehyba one more time, as the second ride downhill, we chose the As a final result of our assumptions, we discovered a pretty nice new route.

Basically, everything seemed to be going

nice and smooth, as it always goes, from

packing, arrival, etc., until one moment. And I

will tell you everything about it, cause we had

never had such an accumulation of adverse

coincidences at a time! But, first things first:

- after entering the main ridge for the first

time, it turned out that I forgot the saddle bag, in which I had all the necessary tools (a

set of keys, patches, grease, inner tube, etc.).,

- Ola got a flat tire at the first descent (and we

only had 2 tubes, no patches ...),

- after the first descent, my saddle clamping

bracket loosened (just to remind you: I did

not have the keys),

- we had one headlamp for two people, -

while camping, after setting up the tent,

ON THE ROUTE

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yellow trail heading to Przysietnica. I do not know how to describe this trail in a brief way, but for the first nearly 4 kilometers, you need to ride in single file. It is diversified from the perspective of the level of difficulty, surface and the time of ride on particular sections, but it’s perfect! The second part of the trail, although wider, runs along a narrow forest road that is almost unattended (and therefore not damaged). Taking this section you can juggle with speed and agility. We entered the third uphill section through the Przesietnica Valley. A half of the route leading through the valley is paved with asphalt, but it didn’t bother us, considering that we had to climb more than 600

meters up again. Obviously, the road climbs quite rapidly and after 3 kilometers it turns into gravel, in some places into a forest path of a much worse surface quality. In general, another very exhausting climb, especially due to the fact that we couldn’t afford to slow down as the day was getting shorter. We reached Przehyba at 5 pm sharp. We quickly changed into slightly warmer clothes, a quick snack and a sip of water. The last downhill, not as exhausting as the previous one, was ahead of us. We wanted to get to Szlachtowa and then to Szczawnica through Pieniążna and Stary Wierch. The initial section of the descent was quite demanding because it leads through a rocky, blurred forest road. Not everyone likes such downhill rides, but, unfortunately, there are more and more of them in the Beskids. After one kilometre, the surface of the bicycle trail changes to a bit more bicycle-friendly and you can ride faster. Of course, a huge number of beech leaves makes it hard to ride, but he who doesn’t risk ... rides downhill in the dark. After another 2 kilometres, the trail leaves the forest behind and enters into a glade and… the ride is over. You simply can’t go further, just can’t! A breathtaking performance appears right in front our eyes.

The spectacle of the setting sun between the Tatra Mountains and the Three Crowns Peak in the Pieniny Mountains. The magic of light and the charm of the place made that moment very special. Unfortunately, we couldn’t stay long enough to enjoy that moment in its fullest because the incoming end of the day forced us to go further down the valley. We were speeding across the halls over Szlachtowa with obvious pleasure and finally, by nightfall we reached the parking lot in Szczawnica, located in the valley of the Sopotnicki Stream].

At the Zaskalnik Waterfall, we found a good place to put up a tent. In the light of the headlamp, we tried to wash ourselves even a bit in a (very) refreshing stream, and as a reward for our bravery, we warmed up by the evening campfire. The stars shining upon our heads weren’t a sign of a warm night, but well - somehow we managed to lay down and sleep throughout the night. After all, the next day was another day full of new adventures.

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There was nothing but silence. Of course, the natural one. Actually, a wide gravel trail 19

leads to the Łabowska Hall, which due to its simplicity does not come as a surprise in any way. On the way, I also passed “Rocks and caves at the Wierch nad Kamieniem otherwise known as ‚the Devil’s Stone’. Approximately at 4pm, I MINI BIKEPACKING

reached Hala Łabowska. Above the shelter there is a monument reminding us WITH KASIA LUCKY MTB

about the bloody times of World War II, when the local guerillas fought with the Nazi invaders. Going further on - to Jaworzyna Krynicka. The red trail is not particularly scenic. If you want to feast your eyes on the landscape, you have to fight your way through the bunch of nettles. But apart from the lack of views, everything was there.

The path is pretty ok. On the way to Jaworzyna, you need to ride through several peaks, including Jawor, Jaworczyk, Izworyki Mound, Hola, Runek. All those spots all well-marked. On the trail there are

also places, where you can jump into muddy puddles that I believe never dry out.

There was also some sand. But my „golden tank” will conquer any kind of obstacle.

The final section to Jaworzyna Krynicka was quite a long uphill ride, which gave me a hard time, even though it did not look like that at the first sight. At the top, apart from the amazing mountain landscape, there was basically nothing interesting. When PART 1: NOWY SĄCZ - SZCZAWNICA

you reach the mountain top the presence of civilization is easy to spot, including a  DAY 1: NOWY SĄCZ - PIWNICZNA ZDRÓJ

I start my mini bikepacking in Nowy Sącz, where I arrived by train.

I chose this city as a starting point of my trip because I wanted to refresh my memory a bit. This intention resulted in riding 14 km on the asphalt road to Łabowa. The initial section of the route was a city bike path, where I had an opportunity to listen to a wonderful sound of roaring of tires. The path was followed

by the main road, from which I wanted to

escape as soon as possible. In Łabowa,

I entered the blue trail, which was also

marked as a bicycle trail. At the beginning,

there was an asphalt surface, which I was

slowly getting fed up with. The sun was

scorching hot that day, so I couldn’t wait to

get into the woods. And finally, there it was

- the Poprad Landscape Park. The clatter of

train wheels and the sound of passing cars

suddenly ceased.

ON THE ROUTE

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gondola station that sets off from the Czarny Potok Valley, an inn and a 40-meter  DAY 2: PIWNICZNA - ZDRÓJ - SZCZAWNICA

retransmission tower. There is also a hostel below. As for me, the best man-made thing there was a bench situated in a pretty good viewing point.

The next day was going to be just as intense as the previous one and beautiful Next stop was Piwniczna-Zdrój. It didn’t take much time to put myself together.

before the same time. I had a plan to get to Czorsztyn in time for the sunset. In the I took the red trail and went back to Runek. On the way, I had to take a few stops.

morning, I made a little update to the route plan (as I was recommended to do).

The flowers growing on the slope of Jaworzyna looked amazing. I turned onto the Initially, I cycled along the asphalt road, accompanied by numerous sheaves of hay.

blue trail leading to the Bacówka nad Wierchomlą (the Wierchomla Shepherd’s Finding the path was still a little bit problematic to me, but I finally made it. It was Hut). Having left the forest behind, the views were scenic again. The path led a narrow, sheep-trodden path winding between two farms. Later on the situation through a green valley. I stopped by the shepherd’s hut for a moment to see what got complicated. The path simply began to turn into a pasture. The screaming farmer was behind it. Mountains, green hills bathed in the mist of settling dew. Below the and a herd of cows with a bull at the front made me turn back, so decided to stick to shelter, there was a spacious meadow. At the sunset, that place with all its colours my original plan of the route to Eliaszówka. I started the climb again, this time along was truly astonishing. And the sunset itself was truly spectacular that day. So I the green trail running from Piwniczna. Riding a narrow path through the meadows, decided to stop there, even if I had to go back in the dark. There were a few more I reached the paved road leading the houses situated above. The slab concrete paved kilometres ahead of me, so regretfully, I continued along the blue trail, towards the uphill was not so bad, I could make up for the time I lost and gain altitude quickly.

upper station of the Wierchomla lift. I rode down towards the sun hiding behind the mountains. You can get faster taking the slope of the ski lift, but it’s better to be careful. I rode the last 14 km from Wierchomla to Piwniczna in the asphalt enduro style. I arrived just before 11 pm.

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The next sections of the green trail are full of minor inconveniences for people traveling Then, making the slalom between puddles, I went

by bike. Fallen branches lying on the trail make it difficult to carry your bicycle, not along the red trail towards Jaworki. The red

to even mention riding it. In addition, the path climbs sharply. After I dealt with the trail turned out to be very picturesque. I started passage through this mess, another difficulty occurred. I had two options to choose thanking my lucky stars once again that a storm

from. Stairs or stones. Honestly, it was easier to carry the bike up the stairs. Once I got had caught me earlier. I found myself at the point,

to the top, the trail was finally passable. Eliaszówka was very close. There was no sign where time and place had come to a perfect

that the weather would suddenly change. When I turned around, I saw that weather agreement.

armageddon coming towards me. Suddenly, the wind started to blow much harder, the sky turned grey, and in the distance, I could hear the rumble of lightning strikes. I checked I guess that words „beautiful” and „insane” are quickly on the radar, where the storm was heading. It actually looked like it was going too common to describe the view. I stayed there

to pass sideways. I spontaneously decided to move on. I was almost at the top. On the a little longer, ate the leftover cookies, enjoyed the way, I met four people who advised me to turn back. Once, I had experienced a storm moment. In fact, I wasn’t in a hurry at all, and it was in the mountains and I didn’t want to repeat that, so I turned back to Chata Magóry (the not far to Szczawnica.

ON THE ROUTE

MTB, SINGLE-DAY TRIPS

OUTE

the route for experienced mountain bikers

ON THE R

medium difficult route

time needed to complete the route: 2 days

the route length: 117 km

recommended type of bike: mountain (MTB)

Magóra’s Hut), which I had passed before. And guess what, I don’t regret NOWY SĄCZ

it. Amazing hosts, you can instantly feel that they put their whole heart into

• Łabowa

this place. I spent there three hours, in the meantime I made a few failed attempts to enter Eliaszówka. But at some point, the sky finally cleared and

• Hala Łabowska

I was able to continue my trip, although deep down I was hoping it wouldn’t stop raining and I would be forced to stay there for a night. The same

• Jaworzyna Krynicka

uphill twice in one day was no tragedy to me, at least I knew what I had to face with. After three the hours of intense rainfall, the riding conditions

• the Wierchomla Shepherd’s Hut

were a bit more difficult, but the sun was shining and I didn’t care for the rest. On Eliaszówka, you will find a 20-meter wooden observation tower.

• Piwniczna - Zdrój

Even though it was already late, I did not miss an opportunity to check it. When I was in the tower, I already knew that I would not be in time

• the Magóra’s Hut

to see the sunset by Czorsztyn. That’s why I decided to go to Szczawnica.

From Eliaszówka, I continued the ride along the green trail to the the Obidza Pass and then to Obidza. After a three-hour downpour, my wheels

• Eliaszówka

and my shoes sank into the mud like a spoon in a tiramisu.

Obidza Pass

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together create a unique, one and only, landscape. At Wysoki Wierch, you will find a traditional shepherd’s hut. Then, I started pushing the bike out to Wysoki Wierch.

20

At that time, I didn’t see any alternative way, but to push it hard towards the place of destination. Wysoki Wierch is less than 898 m height above the sea level. It is situated in the ridge of the Little Pieniny Mountain Range, what’s iinteresting is that Polish-MINI BIKEPACKING

Slovak border runs through its peak. This hill is very captivating in terms of views.

I must have spent half an hour there. From Wysokie Wierch, I went down the yellow WITH KASIĄ LUCKY MTB

trail, which turned out to be very gentle and of course scenic. I stopped on a hill and this deep blue shade of grenade suddenly appeared in the sky, which did not herald anything good. At least for a lonely cyclist. I was wondering for a moment, should I go or not? Nonetheless, I jumped onto the red trail and rode towards the storm. The PART 2: ON THE ROUTE FROM SZCZAWNICA TO RABKA-ZDRÓJ

DAY 3: SZCZAWNICA - OCHOTNICA GÓRNA

The morning in Szczawnica welcomed me with the sun shining on the blue sky. I knew it was gonna be a good day. The initial section of the route maybe wasn’t a very ambitious one, but the fastest one to make up for yesterday’s losses. Cycling along the Palenica ski slope, I pushed my bike onto the Szafranówka Mount. From Szafranówka, I followed the blue border trail resembling

a sea of mud towards Wysoki Wierch. Then,

the trail began to climb sharply. It was the

place, where I had the most hardcore push

of that trip. Later it turned out that there was

an alternative route leading around this hill.

The view that awaited me once I had left

the forest compensated me for the loss of

energy. The blue trail Pod Huściawą is in fact road to the Klasztorna Góra Pass, was quite arduous, I mean, this deep mud mixed a picturesque glade. I have never seen the

with stones and sticks, which is not necessarily easy to ride on.

Three Crowns peak from that perspective.

the Three Crowns peak emerged from around the bend, and just a bit below, there In a place like this, you can notice endless was a roof that I so badly needed about half an hour earlier. The last raindrops were shades of green. Each species of tree, each

already falling from the sky and the thunder had stopped. But I sat down for a moment blade of grass,

anyway, thanking my lucky stars for having spared me again. Always following the red trail, I went down to the Red Monastery and then I went to the place I knew very well, to Sromowce Niżne. The weather was finally stable, so I came up with the idea to go around Czorsztyn Lake, and only after then to go through Lubań to Ochotnica. If you want to travel from Sromowce to Niedzica it is best to take the VeloDunajec route -

considered to be one

ON THE ROUTE

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137

of the most beautiful bicycle routes in Poland. My entry to the water dam rose a lot of interest among the strollers, probably because of the mud that was falling off not only from my bike. I skipped the tour around the castle because I had already been there three times. But if you haven’t been there yourself, I highly recommend you to visit the place and learn a little bit more about it. The weather was perfect and I was able to start a part of the route that had been haunting me for a long time.

Bicycle path around Czorsztyn Lake. It wasn’t exactly what I expected. It started to rain again, but I realized that there would be some places on the route, where I could wait out the incoming storm. Unfortunately. That was the place where a cloudburst caught me. I didn’t have much choice, so I kept going. When I was all wet, a woodshed appeared in front of my eyes. At least some wooden boards were drying out there.

I squeezed into the shed with the bike. Though I didn’t have anything dry anyway, I decided that I would wait until it stopped pouring. After some time it stopped. So I had some time to think about some a different route to Ochotnica. I gave up crossing Luban because after such heavy rainfall, it could be very muddy, and I didn’t feel like doing it today. I decided to get to Ochotnica along the blue trail, through Kotelnica.

The trail starts in the village of Huba. Apart from the beautiful landscape, there was nothing interesting behind your back. The blue trail crosses the red one, which I was supposed to arrive from Lubań. I followed the red trail to Studzionki, but then the sound of gurgling in my stomach made me go down the asphalt road to Ochotnica.

Finding some place to eat was a priority, so I decided to look somewhere to sleep later. Finding a comfortable bed was not a problem.

DAY 4: OCHOTNICA GÓRNA - RABKA - ZDRÓJ

The fourth day of my trip just started. Unfortunately, it was the last one. I set off from Ochotnica Górna following the winding asphalt route and unhurriedly reached the Knurowska Pass. I was immediately greeted by the view of the Tatra Mountains in all its majestic splendour. Initially, the red trail resembled the bed of a recently dried up river. Going further, the soil was not so dry as the „flowering” green puddles, already inhabited by frogs, appeared.

Turbacz was approaching inevitably, and I was trying to postpone that moment in time in every way that I could. I really liked the Zielenica Glade near Kiczora. The view was inviting to come and lie down on the grass and just admire the Tatras. But that would be an exaggeration because I didn’t travel much since the last stop. In many places the red trail is easily passable. Although there are moments, where the slope just doesn’t allow you to climb, so pushing your bicycle is a „must-have pleasure”. I passed Młyńska Hall, Długa Hall and Wolnica Hall and reached the shelter in Turbacz. The open space that accompanied me during this uphill was amazing. I could literally feel the fact that I was breathing. On my way

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to the top, the Tatra Mountains accompanied me, just like the last time, but with no The best place - for me - is the area of the snow-covered peaks for a change. There were quite a few people at the top, so I got Bacówka nad Wierchomlą (English: the Wierchomla out of there very quickly. I wrote about the downhill ride along the red trail in my post Shepherd’s Hut) (the sunset rocks), Schronisko entitled „Niezwykłe Gorce - Turbacz in the leading role”. I can assure you that nothing Magóry (English: the Magóra Shelter), (great hosts has changed since then. I also made a short stop „pod Rozdzielem” (this is how the and even better food), Wysoki Wierch in the Little place is described on the map). And then I realized that it was almost over. I set off, still Pieniny and of course Gorce. Where to sleep - I following the red trail. On the way, I passed a mountain shelter in Stare Wierchy and chose accommodation in guesthouses. I didn’t

Bacówka in Maciejowa (English: the Maciejowa Shepherd’s Hut), but I didn’t go inside.

book anything earlier because I didn’t know where

The rest of the trail is a chill out. A wide road between green hills. The last section to I would eventually end my day and, as you know,

Rabka was very pleasant until I arrived to the centre. I was welcomed by road renovation the weather may take you by surprise and you may

works and the city noise - back to civilization.

need to change your plans. It is the best to go on

such trip alone, on the way you get to know a lot of fantastic people, you have time to think over and,

above all, take a break from everyday life.

MTB, MULTI-DAY TRIPS

WITH MOUNTAINS IN

THE BACKGROUND

ORSZTYN LAKE

route for experienced mountain bikers

CZ

medium difficult route

time needed to complete the route: 2 days

the route length: 107 km

recommended type of bike: mountain (MTB)

SUMMARY 4 DAYS

SZCZAWNICA

Even though the Beskid Śląski is right under my nose, the Beskid Sądecki,

• Szafranówka

Pieniny and Gorce mountains are definitely my favourite mountain areas

• Wysoki Wierch

in Poland. The idea for this trip hit the spot.

• the Red Monastery

The length of the route: 224 km

• Sromowce Niżne

Time: 4 days, with no hurry. It can be dealt with faster, but what for. This

• Niedzica

is not a race.

Elevation gain: 5231 m

• Ochotnica Górna

The weight of the bike with all equipment: 17 kg

• the Knurowska Pass

• Turbacz

Difficulty level - medium. There are moments that require more attention and focus, there are sections, where the ocean of stones floods the entire

• the Stare Wierchy Shelter

trail and you have to go on foot. There were moments, when I had to push

• the Maciejowa Shepherd’s

the bike hard. But on the other hand, there are also asphalt surfaces, Hut

which sometimes can get you irritated and sometimes allow you to take a break from the rocky sections of the route.

RABKA-

ZDRÓJ

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MAP KEY

VeloMałopolska existing sections; sections under construction and planned WTR

VeloDunajec existing sections; sections under construction and planned VeloMetropolis existing sections; sections under construction and planned VeloRaba existing sections; sections under construction and planned Published by

The Marshal’s Office of the Małopolska Region

ul. Racławicka 56, 30-017 Kraków

VeloNatura existing sections; sections under construction and planned visitmalopolska.pl

fb.com/MSIT.OdkryjMalopolske

VeloPradnik existing sections; sections under construction and planned narowery.visitmalopolska.pl

fb.com/malopolskanarowery

VeloRudawa existing sections; sections under construction and planned Cyclist Service Areas (MOR)

Text by

Anita and Paweł Skowera (101countriesbefore50.com)

Ewa Świderska (Ewcyna.com)

Rest sheds

Szymon Nitka (ZnajKraj.pl)

Katarzyna Łaskawiec and Tomasz Sawirski (PolskaPoGodzinach.pl) Other bike routes

Jarek Tarański (fb.com/velomalopolska)

Alicja Rapsiewicz and Andrzej Budnik (LosWiaheros.pl) The beginning, end and direction of the bicycle route described in the guide Kasia Pustelnik-Szewczyk and Marek Szewczyk (Kasai.eu) Anna i Tomasz Mazurkowie (RodzinnieDookolaSwiata.pl) Churches; monasteries; synagogues

Wojciech Goj (SzlakWokolTatr.eu)

Szymon Rochowiak (BeskidTrail.pl)

Museums, open-air museums; other monuments; palaces, manors; castles Katarzyna Puźniak (LuckyMTB.pl)

Dominika Borówka, Magdalena Budkiewicz (Introduction) Fortifications; battlefields, national memorials; tourist attractions Text authors, the Archive of the Marshal’s Office of the Małopolska Region Health resorts; thermal baths; lidos

Photos by

Łukasz Lisiecki (velodunajec.pl) (cover)

Mountain shelters; camping sites; quarries

Translation

Centrum Języków Obcych i Przedmiotów Ścisłych LOOK AHEAD

Ski resorts; ski lifts; underground tourist routes; equestrian centres (LOOK AHEAD Foreign Languages and Exact Sciences Center) Marta Gil-Kruczała, Attorney at law & Sworn translator of English Water sports centres; amusement parks

Editorial revision,

Euro Pilot Sp. z o.o.

print

ul. Konarskiego 3, 01-355 Warszawa

Viewpoints; UNESCO sites; tourist information

www.europilot.com.pl

939

Caves; rocks; mountain passes; elevation points

Editing

Jolanta Sieradzka-Kasprzak

Airports; river ferries; mines

Graphic design and

Ewa Chmielewska

Objects on the Wooden Architecture Trail

typesetting

Forests; natural attractions

Figures and maps by

Ewa Czajkowska

National parks; landscape parks

Robert Wojniak

Nature reserves

ISBN 978-83-66580-67-1

A4

Highways; express roads

S7

28

National roads; provincial roads

Kraków, 2020

975

Local roads; field and forest roads

RYTRO

Railways with stations and stops

State borders

Borders of voivodeships

For everyone, multi-day trips

For everyone, single-day trips

Family, single-day trips

MTB, single- and multi-day trips

narowery.visitmalopolska.pl